First I want to thank you all for following my blog. It made me nervous to start this blog but maintaining it became a nice way to share my insights and release frustrations. As you have likely noticed, I have lagged a bit on posting this last entry. Here it is.
Macchu Pichu did prove to be a great last adventure (prior to the endless last bit of travel). I woke up at 3:30 am and set out with two Mexicans, one Dane, two Dutch women and an Israeli couple. We picked up a solo American on the way to the Inca steps and were on our way. It was HARD!!! We had to leave early in order to get to Macchu Pichu in time for sunrise and to have the opportunity to climb Huayna Pichu (the other mountain you'll see in most Macchu Pichu pics. Stair after stair afters stair, the air got thinner and our need for it grew greater. Our group split up into smaller groups as paces set us apart and I was at the front with the Mexicans, the Dane and my fellow American (he didn't represent well by only bringing a bottle of Coca Cola to drink).
Every time we stopped for a breather with screaming lungs, we would catch our breath quickly, only to lose it again a few steps into the next ascent. In an hour, we had cranked through the hike for which we'd be told to allow ninety minutes. We kept joking with each other that we were killing ourselves at this pace and at such an early time only to earn the right to hike up another mountain!!
The effort was worth it all around. The sunrise took my remaining breath away. I was cold and exhausted but loved every moment I was there. We were allowed into Macchu Pichu at 6am and were greeted my Llamas as they fed on the manicured law terraces. We were given an official tour (my hiking buddies were in the Spanish tour, I in the English) and after getting some history, I was ushered to Huayna Pichu with my two Dutch hiking buddies. Huayna Pichu was shorter but much steeper, soaking me with sweat again and making my lungs scream for the even thinner air. An hour or so of relaxing at 7,000 feet allowed for only a bit of time to explore Macchu Pichu before having to join a bus back to Aguas Calientes and another 7 hours back to Cuzco.
I left Cuzco the following day on a 22 hours bus to Lima where I sat 6 hours in the airport before a 5 hour flight, another 4 hour layover before a 4 hour flight, a 3 hour wait and an 8 hour drive from LA to SF. About 48 hours of travel later, I was home!!!
Now that I am home, I can't help but notice what has stayed with me. I still love every hot shower, every cold drink and every comfortable night in my own bed. I have seen a pair of women making out at a Giants game, a man screaming/preaching about his 57,000,000,000 sons named Revenge until the police took him off the bus. I have had many burritos and watched many baseball games. I am poor in dollars but rich in experience, two truths that are not always evident from the outside. Dipping into my closet of dress shirts and slacks has me wearing clean clothes every day. I blend in on public transportation like I did before I left. I can't help but think how many other people I pass on the street or sit next to on the bus may have similar life altering experiences hidden away.
The observations and insights that I love to share on this blog have not made me any more talkative in person. The experience is inside, in pictures and in my blog entries but when asked "What was it like?" or "What was your favorite part?" I tend to draw a blank. There is SO much that I can't call upon on a whim that will have to come up throughout the upcoming years. I look forward to trolling over these blog entries for the first time as a way to remind me of what I've done. I have done my best to stay in the moment, enjoying each day and leaving the next day open.
One great way to work my way back into American culture has been working at Sunset Cooperative Nursery School. Whether they are slung across their mother's back or transfered from expensive crib to carseat to stroller, 2, 3 and 4 year old kids are fun and brutally honest around the world. I also got to share in my Mom's 60th birthday celebration, enjoying an experience that rivaled any from my trip.
I may write another entry or two as I get used to being back home. I am still not used to being in American culture but I am really enjoying it. I will definitely add many pictures. I am having a hard time with them at the moment.
Love to all!
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Saturday, May 22, 2010
What comes next?
In a few short days, I will be boarding a flight from Lima to Los Angeles via Mexico City. My sisters Megan and Martha will pick me up at LAX and the three of us will share the last leg of my journey. To ensure that the journey comes full circle, we will make at least one stop at In 'n Out burger as we did when the three of us went to SFO on August 15, 2007.
For now, I am enjoying the thin air of beautiful Cuzco. I spent my first night here at Loki Backpackers Hostel, a place recommended by a guide book. This place is pretty wild! If one wants to feel as though they are back in college and not in a Spanish speaking country, this is the place. The first night had pub trivia, one of my favorite ways to combine beer and brains. The next morning, I thought I would save a bit of money and energy by moving down the road to a cheaper, slower paced hostel.
Though Loki is as touristy as can be, it has the best assortment of volunteer opportunities of any hostel I´ve come across so far. Though not staying there, I was able to sign up for a day of manual labor in the sacred valley. Many people pay for tours of this valley, I paid for transport and to lug adobe bricks onto and off of a truck. Last year, hundreds of families lost their homes and livelihoods when Cuzco was ravaged by a flood. I am embarrassed to say that I didn´t make the connection between Macchu Picchu´s flood based closure to flooding around the area.
Eight volunteers signed up for the day and we took a ninety minute ride into the beautiful sacred valley. We were told that we would be helping to build a guinea pig enclosure as a way to offer income generating activities to the community. We didn´t know that the bricks were at least 30 lbs. each and we would fill and empty a large flatbed truck three times. I was one of four men to volunteer and two of the others suffer from lower back troubles. Taking one for the team, I was either standing behind the truck, holding bricks at shoulder height for people to easily load the truck or I was on the truck, bent over, receiving the bricks and stacking them in place. At least 800 bricks later, we were all dust covered and exhausted. My lower back muscles and hamstrings are still screaming at me but also letting my know that I was using muscles rather than vertebrae for the work.
Yesterday, I volunteered again, this time at a school for disadvantaged children. I was the only volunteer this time (late nights and early morning volunteering don´t always agree) and joined the two volunteer coordinators. We went to the greatest playground I have ever seen and I was immediately paired up with a little gordito. The playground was equiped with several slides of at least 50 feet, mini-carousels, swings, a trampoline and more. My little guy Fabricio was all about the slide so I spent much of the time climbing stairs and pulling myself down the slide (jeans and a little guy on the lap didn´t allow for fast sliding). Fabricio spent at least thirty minutes longer with his lunch and only got a few minutes of kneeling on the trampoline before the day was over. He had a huge smile on his face when slowly sliding and while kneeling on the trampoline so I felt like a successful play partner.
When I got back from volunteering, I had an e-mail from my waitlist manager at Michigan. Her message said that she tried calling me earlier in the week but couldn´t get through so could I please e-mail her back so we could talk about a few things.
Two days prior, about twenty people posted messages to an MBA board about being admitted off the waitlist at Ross (the name of Michigan´s business school). I was confident about my chances but after getting no news felt sure that I was out of luck.
Having a San Francisco phone number as my contact information definitely didn´t help matters but after three pay phone calls and a few e-mails I was able to get in touch with the member of admissions. After ten minutes of answering questions about why I want to attend Ross, where it stands on my list of prospective schools and other questions similar to those I answered during my Mumbai interview, I was invited to join the class of 2012. I happily accepted and will be headed to Ann Arbor this fall. What a relief after applying from the road, piecing together my application and speculating endlessly, I am in!! I withdrew from Duke´s waitlist and now will head home with the next chapter sorted. Tomorrow, I will head up to Macchu Picchu!
Love to all!
For now, I am enjoying the thin air of beautiful Cuzco. I spent my first night here at Loki Backpackers Hostel, a place recommended by a guide book. This place is pretty wild! If one wants to feel as though they are back in college and not in a Spanish speaking country, this is the place. The first night had pub trivia, one of my favorite ways to combine beer and brains. The next morning, I thought I would save a bit of money and energy by moving down the road to a cheaper, slower paced hostel.
Though Loki is as touristy as can be, it has the best assortment of volunteer opportunities of any hostel I´ve come across so far. Though not staying there, I was able to sign up for a day of manual labor in the sacred valley. Many people pay for tours of this valley, I paid for transport and to lug adobe bricks onto and off of a truck. Last year, hundreds of families lost their homes and livelihoods when Cuzco was ravaged by a flood. I am embarrassed to say that I didn´t make the connection between Macchu Picchu´s flood based closure to flooding around the area.
Eight volunteers signed up for the day and we took a ninety minute ride into the beautiful sacred valley. We were told that we would be helping to build a guinea pig enclosure as a way to offer income generating activities to the community. We didn´t know that the bricks were at least 30 lbs. each and we would fill and empty a large flatbed truck three times. I was one of four men to volunteer and two of the others suffer from lower back troubles. Taking one for the team, I was either standing behind the truck, holding bricks at shoulder height for people to easily load the truck or I was on the truck, bent over, receiving the bricks and stacking them in place. At least 800 bricks later, we were all dust covered and exhausted. My lower back muscles and hamstrings are still screaming at me but also letting my know that I was using muscles rather than vertebrae for the work.
Yesterday, I volunteered again, this time at a school for disadvantaged children. I was the only volunteer this time (late nights and early morning volunteering don´t always agree) and joined the two volunteer coordinators. We went to the greatest playground I have ever seen and I was immediately paired up with a little gordito. The playground was equiped with several slides of at least 50 feet, mini-carousels, swings, a trampoline and more. My little guy Fabricio was all about the slide so I spent much of the time climbing stairs and pulling myself down the slide (jeans and a little guy on the lap didn´t allow for fast sliding). Fabricio spent at least thirty minutes longer with his lunch and only got a few minutes of kneeling on the trampoline before the day was over. He had a huge smile on his face when slowly sliding and while kneeling on the trampoline so I felt like a successful play partner.
When I got back from volunteering, I had an e-mail from my waitlist manager at Michigan. Her message said that she tried calling me earlier in the week but couldn´t get through so could I please e-mail her back so we could talk about a few things.
Two days prior, about twenty people posted messages to an MBA board about being admitted off the waitlist at Ross (the name of Michigan´s business school). I was confident about my chances but after getting no news felt sure that I was out of luck.
Having a San Francisco phone number as my contact information definitely didn´t help matters but after three pay phone calls and a few e-mails I was able to get in touch with the member of admissions. After ten minutes of answering questions about why I want to attend Ross, where it stands on my list of prospective schools and other questions similar to those I answered during my Mumbai interview, I was invited to join the class of 2012. I happily accepted and will be headed to Ann Arbor this fall. What a relief after applying from the road, piecing together my application and speculating endlessly, I am in!! I withdrew from Duke´s waitlist and now will head home with the next chapter sorted. Tomorrow, I will head up to Macchu Picchu!
Love to all!
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Time running out but feeling long
I am feeling back to my normal self again and have been thoroughly enjoying Peru. For five dollars a night, I have had my own room with a hot shower and cable TV. Most of the television is in spanish but I have managed to catch some NBA playoffs, great tennis and a baseball game.
It may sound as though I am spending a lot of time watching TV. I am spending much more time in front of the TV than I have in the last two and a half years but not too much. However, I do feel that it is more of a chore filling my days.
Arequipa and Puno (where I am now) have been great but unless I want to break the bank for ice axes and crampons, I will not be doing any hiking in the area. Arequipa is surrounded by several 6,000 meter peaks, offering a gorgeous backdrop in most directions. Puno is right on Lake Titicaca, a lake that sticks out in my mind for immature young boy reasons. Some touristy island trips are available here but I think that I will pass. There are cultures on various islands that survive predominantly on tourist dollars by keeping themselves from developing. One island survived the Incas and other warring neighbors by building everything out of the buoyant reeds in the area. Now, they still make everything out of reeds in order to draw tourists. I am sure there are beautiful crafts and homes but I will pass this time around.
I will head to Cuzco in two days I think. I have really enjoyed walking around Puno, admiring the Quechua women and adorable kids. I have been here for two full days and each day, I stumbled upon a street market and a cement soccer match. Saturday reminded me of beer league softball in the states as two teams of men in their 40s, 50s and 60s donned full uniforms and brought full competitive spirit to an outdoor basketball court. I helped a tourism student with his english while enjoying the matches.
Today presented a pair of matches made up of more youthful teams. Old men sat in the stands with beers and a cute young girl gnawed on what appeared to be a pig hip-bone next to me. I get stared at more than talked to but I am enjoying myself.
It is strange how I seek out the less touristy areas but miss company when I arrive. Cuzco is sure to provide company and incredible sites. I am looking forward to it!!
Love to all!
It may sound as though I am spending a lot of time watching TV. I am spending much more time in front of the TV than I have in the last two and a half years but not too much. However, I do feel that it is more of a chore filling my days.
Arequipa and Puno (where I am now) have been great but unless I want to break the bank for ice axes and crampons, I will not be doing any hiking in the area. Arequipa is surrounded by several 6,000 meter peaks, offering a gorgeous backdrop in most directions. Puno is right on Lake Titicaca, a lake that sticks out in my mind for immature young boy reasons. Some touristy island trips are available here but I think that I will pass. There are cultures on various islands that survive predominantly on tourist dollars by keeping themselves from developing. One island survived the Incas and other warring neighbors by building everything out of the buoyant reeds in the area. Now, they still make everything out of reeds in order to draw tourists. I am sure there are beautiful crafts and homes but I will pass this time around.
I will head to Cuzco in two days I think. I have really enjoyed walking around Puno, admiring the Quechua women and adorable kids. I have been here for two full days and each day, I stumbled upon a street market and a cement soccer match. Saturday reminded me of beer league softball in the states as two teams of men in their 40s, 50s and 60s donned full uniforms and brought full competitive spirit to an outdoor basketball court. I helped a tourism student with his english while enjoying the matches.
Today presented a pair of matches made up of more youthful teams. Old men sat in the stands with beers and a cute young girl gnawed on what appeared to be a pig hip-bone next to me. I get stared at more than talked to but I am enjoying myself.
It is strange how I seek out the less touristy areas but miss company when I arrive. Cuzco is sure to provide company and incredible sites. I am looking forward to it!!
Love to all!
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Happy Mother´s Day
I emailed my mom yesterday thinking (and hoping) that I wouldn´t have internet access today. Since I am here, I can with another Happy Mother´s Day to my mom and to every other mom reading.
I got to San Pedro de Atacama with the hope of seeing salt flats and getting back in the travel groove. I did both and was only dissatisfied with the salt flats. My first full day, I started by wandering out the front door of the hostel, expecting to get a lay of the land and avoid organized tours. 5 hours later, I returned with a pretty good sunburn, about 7 miles on the internal odometer and some tired legs. I ended up walking to an archeological site, visiting ruins from an old military settlement that was destroyed over 500 years ago. The ruins were interesting but the view was what made it. San Pedro de Atacama, as I mentioned, is in the driest desert in the world. 3 days prior to my arrival, the town got a deluge of rain, dusting the surrounding mountains and volcanoes with snow. The site had two paths, one giving a gorgeous view of the mountains, the other giving a breathtaking view of death valley (named due to mistranslation rather than any real death, it was supposed to be earth valley to match the nearby Valle de la Luna) with visible layers of ash, salt and rock from millions of years back.
When I got back from my hike, I kept with my original plan to join a tour (can´t avoid them all) to the Valle de la Luna for sunset. The tour took our group to view death valley from the side opposite where I had already been. We went from there to another viewpoint, this one with what the guide called a Wile e Coyote rock. The overhanging rock offered maybe a thirty foot drop but was laid in front of a valley hundreds of feet below, offering frightening but not terribly unsafe photo ops.
Our next stop was to an intimidating enclave where we sat in silence as the sun started to go down. The hollow salt structures around us began to ping and crack as they cooled, offering a bizarre but enchanting sound.
We stopped briefly at Tres Marias, a trio of natural stone pillars. We only got to see two unfortnately because a French tourist toppled the third after climbing it for a photo opp.
The final stop was Valle de la Luna where we had to trek up maybe 200 yard of sand dune before gaining the proper point of view. Many tour groups were assembled (apparently far fewer than during peak season) which took some of the wonder out of it but still offered amazing views.
The next morning, I literally followed my gut and joined an 11 hour bus south to Salta, Argentina. I wanted steak and wine and was too close to pass it up. If you look at a map, you will see that I have taken a rather circuitous route through the region but I am enjoying myself and seeing some great places.
Within an couple hours of disembarking, I led three Dutch travelers on an epic steak hunt. We walked back and forth before landing at a pricey but promising steak spot. At ten dollars, the steak was more than I expected but I had come a long way and would not be denied. I housed my 1.2 lb steak, enjoying a nice Cabernet alongside. To my dismay, two of my tablemates left huge portions behind. I talked during the meal about how great it would be to have steak for breakfast and lunch. When we were outside, I realized that they had not gotten takeaway containers and upon commenting was told that only Americans get doggies bags. Now I have not been able to defend all statements starting with "only Americans," but this was a different story.
I had steak the next night, washed it down with local tap water after asking for guidance and I spent the next twenty four hours in a serious disagreement with my stomach. Sleeping and sweating throughout. My fever got up to 103 and dropped to 97 so I feared Malaria. The following day, after some magical cipro, I was out of the woods and was even able to get a nice hike in. Slightly strenuous, the exercise and fresh air seemed to be just what I needed.
After the hike, I sorted out my bus ticket for this morning, bought some provisions for my 24 hour bus ride and managed to get to sleep as the rest of the hostel was going out to the bars. My alarm woke my just ten minutes after the last bar straggler and I made my 7am bus easily. 12 hours later, finally having conked out into deep sleep, I was woken up on Calama where I now sit with two more hours to kill before my connecting bus leaves for Arica. In my feverish stupor, I left my toiletry bag on the bus, adding to the string of good travel with bad peripherals.
Happy Mother´s Day once again!!
Love to all.
I got to San Pedro de Atacama with the hope of seeing salt flats and getting back in the travel groove. I did both and was only dissatisfied with the salt flats. My first full day, I started by wandering out the front door of the hostel, expecting to get a lay of the land and avoid organized tours. 5 hours later, I returned with a pretty good sunburn, about 7 miles on the internal odometer and some tired legs. I ended up walking to an archeological site, visiting ruins from an old military settlement that was destroyed over 500 years ago. The ruins were interesting but the view was what made it. San Pedro de Atacama, as I mentioned, is in the driest desert in the world. 3 days prior to my arrival, the town got a deluge of rain, dusting the surrounding mountains and volcanoes with snow. The site had two paths, one giving a gorgeous view of the mountains, the other giving a breathtaking view of death valley (named due to mistranslation rather than any real death, it was supposed to be earth valley to match the nearby Valle de la Luna) with visible layers of ash, salt and rock from millions of years back.
When I got back from my hike, I kept with my original plan to join a tour (can´t avoid them all) to the Valle de la Luna for sunset. The tour took our group to view death valley from the side opposite where I had already been. We went from there to another viewpoint, this one with what the guide called a Wile e Coyote rock. The overhanging rock offered maybe a thirty foot drop but was laid in front of a valley hundreds of feet below, offering frightening but not terribly unsafe photo ops.
Our next stop was to an intimidating enclave where we sat in silence as the sun started to go down. The hollow salt structures around us began to ping and crack as they cooled, offering a bizarre but enchanting sound.
We stopped briefly at Tres Marias, a trio of natural stone pillars. We only got to see two unfortnately because a French tourist toppled the third after climbing it for a photo opp.
The final stop was Valle de la Luna where we had to trek up maybe 200 yard of sand dune before gaining the proper point of view. Many tour groups were assembled (apparently far fewer than during peak season) which took some of the wonder out of it but still offered amazing views.
The next morning, I literally followed my gut and joined an 11 hour bus south to Salta, Argentina. I wanted steak and wine and was too close to pass it up. If you look at a map, you will see that I have taken a rather circuitous route through the region but I am enjoying myself and seeing some great places.
Within an couple hours of disembarking, I led three Dutch travelers on an epic steak hunt. We walked back and forth before landing at a pricey but promising steak spot. At ten dollars, the steak was more than I expected but I had come a long way and would not be denied. I housed my 1.2 lb steak, enjoying a nice Cabernet alongside. To my dismay, two of my tablemates left huge portions behind. I talked during the meal about how great it would be to have steak for breakfast and lunch. When we were outside, I realized that they had not gotten takeaway containers and upon commenting was told that only Americans get doggies bags. Now I have not been able to defend all statements starting with "only Americans," but this was a different story.
I had steak the next night, washed it down with local tap water after asking for guidance and I spent the next twenty four hours in a serious disagreement with my stomach. Sleeping and sweating throughout. My fever got up to 103 and dropped to 97 so I feared Malaria. The following day, after some magical cipro, I was out of the woods and was even able to get a nice hike in. Slightly strenuous, the exercise and fresh air seemed to be just what I needed.
After the hike, I sorted out my bus ticket for this morning, bought some provisions for my 24 hour bus ride and managed to get to sleep as the rest of the hostel was going out to the bars. My alarm woke my just ten minutes after the last bar straggler and I made my 7am bus easily. 12 hours later, finally having conked out into deep sleep, I was woken up on Calama where I now sit with two more hours to kill before my connecting bus leaves for Arica. In my feverish stupor, I left my toiletry bag on the bus, adding to the string of good travel with bad peripherals.
Happy Mother´s Day once again!!
Love to all.
Monday, May 3, 2010
Back on track
I am now in San Pedro de Atacama and rather than having to choose between reading and checking baseball scores or studying Spanish, I get to choose among salt flats, the moon valley, geysers and flamingos. Much more like it!
The ride from Antofagasta was beautiful and comfortable. Unfortunately, it was marred when the driver slammed on the brakes, causing an elderly man to fall and earn a gash on his head. I was quick with first aid equipment (I have carried it this whole time with no real need) but gauze and alcohol pads were not nearly enough and we ended up dropping him and his family at a hospital with a blood soaked shirt pressed to his calm, bald head.
Passing through the Atacama desert (the driest in the world) was consistently beautiful, getting moreso as we approached San Pedro de Atacama. Being around fellow travelers who speak english makes me very happy!! I can cook for myself and see the beauty of Chile rather than staying in a seedy rundown hostel in the city, surrounded by bars and strip clubs. Much better!!
Love to all (even the guy who stole my ipod, I had a good run with it)
The ride from Antofagasta was beautiful and comfortable. Unfortunately, it was marred when the driver slammed on the brakes, causing an elderly man to fall and earn a gash on his head. I was quick with first aid equipment (I have carried it this whole time with no real need) but gauze and alcohol pads were not nearly enough and we ended up dropping him and his family at a hospital with a blood soaked shirt pressed to his calm, bald head.
Passing through the Atacama desert (the driest in the world) was consistently beautiful, getting moreso as we approached San Pedro de Atacama. Being around fellow travelers who speak english makes me very happy!! I can cook for myself and see the beauty of Chile rather than staying in a seedy rundown hostel in the city, surrounded by bars and strip clubs. Much better!!
Love to all (even the guy who stole my ipod, I had a good run with it)
Sunday, May 2, 2010
Solamente con dos completos y sin un ipod
I´m not sure if that title actually makes sense in Spanish. What I do know is that my ipod was stolen from within a foot of me within the last hour and it feels awful. I´ll get to that
My first two nights in Santiago were nice if a bit off due to jetlag. My second night was spent with a pair of girls who contacted me through couchsurfing.com. We sat, drank pisco (a local liquor) and chatted, trading stories about travel and asking questions about culture etc.
Feeling the rush of my schedule, I left and decided rather than head into Argentina with some of the folks I met at the hostel, I would work my way north to ensure that I gave Chile its due. Not much to see so far. I spent two nights in La Serena. The town was beautiful with 27 churches in a relatively small area. It was cold and I was one of a few tourists. I rested, read in the town center and caught up on rest.
I am now in Antofagasta for my third day. It´s the fourth largest city in Chile and up until the theft of my ipod has been pretty nice. I´ve spent a huge amount of time at the internet, watching baseball games and checking if my business school status has changed (it hasn´t). In La Serena and in Antofagasta, I have remained sated by eating completos pretty often. A completo is a hot dog covered in diced tomatoes and avocado and it´s cheap and very tasty. It may not be the healthiest of options but I know how to order it, I can afford it and I love the taste.
It has been a bit lonely traveling solo through towns without many tourists. My spanish is certainly improving but not enough to even explain that my ipod was taken. I guess I should explain that bit now.
The ipod that I´ve had throughout Peace Corps and through my travels around the world is now gone. I was charging it at my computer but saw that the computer was very slow. I unplugged it and plugged it into the computer next to me. I admit that I wasn´t paying close attention but it was within one foot of my hand. The only person to use the computer was a child of around ten years old. He was playing computer games and when he got up to leave, he asked me if the headphones next to his keyboard were mine. The headphones yes, the ipod and cord, gone. What an awful feeling!! BAH!!
From here, I will travel to San Pedro de Atacama where I can see the salt flats. The more famous salt flats are just across the border in Bolivia but rather than pay the 135 dollar reciprocity fee, I will see those that I´ve already paid for. From northern Chile I will head into Peru. I have looked into WWOOFing with the hope of working on organic farms. I haven´t gotten a reply. There is a registration fee but after registering in India and getting no response, I thought I would try the other way around.
Now I´ll watch the rest of the Giants game unfold and think of how to release the anger about my ipod. This has been my sole companion of late with games, spanish lessons and 13,000 songs that I compiled along my travels. Awful.
Love to all (except for whomever stole my ipod)
Ira
My first two nights in Santiago were nice if a bit off due to jetlag. My second night was spent with a pair of girls who contacted me through couchsurfing.com. We sat, drank pisco (a local liquor) and chatted, trading stories about travel and asking questions about culture etc.
Feeling the rush of my schedule, I left and decided rather than head into Argentina with some of the folks I met at the hostel, I would work my way north to ensure that I gave Chile its due. Not much to see so far. I spent two nights in La Serena. The town was beautiful with 27 churches in a relatively small area. It was cold and I was one of a few tourists. I rested, read in the town center and caught up on rest.
I am now in Antofagasta for my third day. It´s the fourth largest city in Chile and up until the theft of my ipod has been pretty nice. I´ve spent a huge amount of time at the internet, watching baseball games and checking if my business school status has changed (it hasn´t). In La Serena and in Antofagasta, I have remained sated by eating completos pretty often. A completo is a hot dog covered in diced tomatoes and avocado and it´s cheap and very tasty. It may not be the healthiest of options but I know how to order it, I can afford it and I love the taste.
It has been a bit lonely traveling solo through towns without many tourists. My spanish is certainly improving but not enough to even explain that my ipod was taken. I guess I should explain that bit now.
The ipod that I´ve had throughout Peace Corps and through my travels around the world is now gone. I was charging it at my computer but saw that the computer was very slow. I unplugged it and plugged it into the computer next to me. I admit that I wasn´t paying close attention but it was within one foot of my hand. The only person to use the computer was a child of around ten years old. He was playing computer games and when he got up to leave, he asked me if the headphones next to his keyboard were mine. The headphones yes, the ipod and cord, gone. What an awful feeling!! BAH!!
From here, I will travel to San Pedro de Atacama where I can see the salt flats. The more famous salt flats are just across the border in Bolivia but rather than pay the 135 dollar reciprocity fee, I will see those that I´ve already paid for. From northern Chile I will head into Peru. I have looked into WWOOFing with the hope of working on organic farms. I haven´t gotten a reply. There is a registration fee but after registering in India and getting no response, I thought I would try the other way around.
Now I´ll watch the rest of the Giants game unfold and think of how to release the anger about my ipod. This has been my sole companion of late with games, spanish lessons and 13,000 songs that I compiled along my travels. Awful.
Love to all (except for whomever stole my ipod)
Ira
Sunday, April 25, 2010
One hour later, 14,750 feet higher
Tan and relaxed, Cheri and I met up in the Auckland airport and soon after were headed to the home of her old camp friend Matt. We dropped off our things and went out for dinner at a nice pub. I felt right at home at a table of folks in their early thirties chatting about work while enjoying some nice microbrews. The baby steps continue from West African culture towards the American culture I´ll tackle in just over a month. Having heard so much about camp throughout our relationship, it was nice to see Cheri in her element with a fellow camp counselors.
On our first full day in New Zealand, Cheri and I took a bus to Lake Taupo. Rather than hitchiking as everyone had suggested, we used the transport as a means of relaxation in addition to transportation. Once in Taupo, we sorted ourselves out in hostel, loaded up on groceries and wandered a bit.
In order to get a deal on bungee jumping the next day, we had to get our jump done before 11am. As we were booking, we discussed the idea of sky diving as well and were told that we had better get the sky dive in ASAP if we wanted to be clear of potential weather obstacles. Instead of rushing off to jump off an eithty meter high platform, we had an hour to kill before being picked up to jump 15,000 feet out of an airplane!!
Though nervous, I was more excited than anything as the time approached. We suited up, met our tandem guides and were soon on a small plane, climbing quickly and being updated on elevation. When the time came, three other sky divers were led through the plane door before my tandem guy and I slid across the bench and to the door. I tucked my legs below the plane, grabbed my harness and leaned my head back on his shoulder. A minute later, we were spinning our way down with the suppport of a nice, fully functioning parachute. My face and hands were freezing but otherwise I was pretty unimpressed. I was definitely nervous as I approached the open door of the plane but after that, I was falling, a stabilizing chute went out and then the main chute went out. I didn´t have to think or act and because of this, the experience flew by.
The next day, we made our early jump time at the bungee site. Once checked in, we decided to watch a few people jump before taking the plunge ourselves. When we got to the viewing platform, a man was ready to jump. At least ten minutes later, the same man had his hands pried from the handrails and was led away from the jump area. He couldn´t do it and his father (standing next to us filming) wasn´t going to let him live it down. We watched a young woman jump and we joined the line.
Cheri went first and after asking about doing flips and swan dives, was told that simply tipping over the edge is the best for your first jump. You get a better free fall and will be in better control. Cheri had a good scream and was totally soaked in the river. I was mostly calm up until my turn to walk to the ledge. Three people checked on the bungee and harness before giving the OK (nice and thorough) and then I walked to the edge with a heavy cord hanging from feet that were restricted as though my shoes had been tied together. 1, 2, 3 Bungee was all I needed to tip forward, spread my arms back and fall. Though I gave the OK for a river dip, only an inch of my hair got wet. The highest peak of adrenaline over these two days was hands down the moment I decided to leave the platform. Some bungee employees broke it down by saying that 15,000 feet is totally surreal and the mind can´t comprehend what´s happening. 250 feet over a river is well within our grasp and our mind and body know that we should NOT fall from that height. I loved it!!
Cheri and I spent the rest of the day hiking around, sitting in thermal springs and swimming in ice cold, crystal clear water. We visited Huka falls and ate some apples and blackberries we found along the way.
Around the time we were bungee jumping and skydiving, I also had a deadline for graduate school and had to say an indefinite goodbye to Cheri. What struck me was how much more my body reacted to checking my waitlist status (still there) and saying goodbyes at Auckland airport (BOOO!!!!) than it did during either adventure sport. My guts get tangled and just stay that way as no answer is near or clear at the moment. Jumping out of a plane is easy to get psyched up for and fun to come down from. I guess it can be said that the reaction I have to these points in life suggest that I´m taking risks in life and putting myself out there. Hard but true.
Now I´m in Santiago. After a 10 plus hour flight, I landed four hours earlier than I left Auckland. I´m staying up until a reasonable time with hopes of getting my body back on track. A whole new adventure is coming but I´m going to take a day or two before rushing into it.
Love to all
On our first full day in New Zealand, Cheri and I took a bus to Lake Taupo. Rather than hitchiking as everyone had suggested, we used the transport as a means of relaxation in addition to transportation. Once in Taupo, we sorted ourselves out in hostel, loaded up on groceries and wandered a bit.
In order to get a deal on bungee jumping the next day, we had to get our jump done before 11am. As we were booking, we discussed the idea of sky diving as well and were told that we had better get the sky dive in ASAP if we wanted to be clear of potential weather obstacles. Instead of rushing off to jump off an eithty meter high platform, we had an hour to kill before being picked up to jump 15,000 feet out of an airplane!!
Though nervous, I was more excited than anything as the time approached. We suited up, met our tandem guides and were soon on a small plane, climbing quickly and being updated on elevation. When the time came, three other sky divers were led through the plane door before my tandem guy and I slid across the bench and to the door. I tucked my legs below the plane, grabbed my harness and leaned my head back on his shoulder. A minute later, we were spinning our way down with the suppport of a nice, fully functioning parachute. My face and hands were freezing but otherwise I was pretty unimpressed. I was definitely nervous as I approached the open door of the plane but after that, I was falling, a stabilizing chute went out and then the main chute went out. I didn´t have to think or act and because of this, the experience flew by.
The next day, we made our early jump time at the bungee site. Once checked in, we decided to watch a few people jump before taking the plunge ourselves. When we got to the viewing platform, a man was ready to jump. At least ten minutes later, the same man had his hands pried from the handrails and was led away from the jump area. He couldn´t do it and his father (standing next to us filming) wasn´t going to let him live it down. We watched a young woman jump and we joined the line.
Cheri went first and after asking about doing flips and swan dives, was told that simply tipping over the edge is the best for your first jump. You get a better free fall and will be in better control. Cheri had a good scream and was totally soaked in the river. I was mostly calm up until my turn to walk to the ledge. Three people checked on the bungee and harness before giving the OK (nice and thorough) and then I walked to the edge with a heavy cord hanging from feet that were restricted as though my shoes had been tied together. 1, 2, 3 Bungee was all I needed to tip forward, spread my arms back and fall. Though I gave the OK for a river dip, only an inch of my hair got wet. The highest peak of adrenaline over these two days was hands down the moment I decided to leave the platform. Some bungee employees broke it down by saying that 15,000 feet is totally surreal and the mind can´t comprehend what´s happening. 250 feet over a river is well within our grasp and our mind and body know that we should NOT fall from that height. I loved it!!
Cheri and I spent the rest of the day hiking around, sitting in thermal springs and swimming in ice cold, crystal clear water. We visited Huka falls and ate some apples and blackberries we found along the way.
Around the time we were bungee jumping and skydiving, I also had a deadline for graduate school and had to say an indefinite goodbye to Cheri. What struck me was how much more my body reacted to checking my waitlist status (still there) and saying goodbyes at Auckland airport (BOOO!!!!) than it did during either adventure sport. My guts get tangled and just stay that way as no answer is near or clear at the moment. Jumping out of a plane is easy to get psyched up for and fun to come down from. I guess it can be said that the reaction I have to these points in life suggest that I´m taking risks in life and putting myself out there. Hard but true.
Now I´m in Santiago. After a 10 plus hour flight, I landed four hours earlier than I left Auckland. I´m staying up until a reasonable time with hopes of getting my body back on track. A whole new adventure is coming but I´m going to take a day or two before rushing into it.
Love to all
Monday, April 19, 2010
Kindness goes a long way
When waiting in line at the US Embassy in Singapore, Cheri and I heard as several people in our same predicament were turned away and told to return the following day. Our visit to Indonesia had completely filled our respective passports and we were scheduled to fly to Australia the following day. We were called at 3pm, laid out the situation for the friendly embassy woman and we were told to come back in thirty minutes to receive our passports complete with extra pages. Thirty minutes rather than a full day? Not bad!
In Australia, Cheri and I rented a campervan. We drove to Byron Bay, hiked a surprisingly grueling Mt. Warning and enjoyed beach time and blending in. For the first time in months, we could walk down the street without drawing too much attention. We did get a few looks when be broke out shampoo, body wash and towels when using the showers at the beach. Though we could cook for ourselves, sleep when we wanted and go where we wanted, getting clean in the campervan required ingenuity. When returning the campervan, we broke the 10 hour drive into two parts. We got going early on the second day, went to a few "urban Koala sites" with no luck. The only stereotypically Australian animals we managed to see were a roadkill Kangaroo and a caged Koala. Too bad. After failing to spot Koala's we were on our way to Sydney again. Time was ticking away as traffic thickened and it seemed that we'd miss our deadline for returning the campervan. We called while in traffic, filled the tank, washed the van, packed up and got to the site twenty minutes late. Because we'd called and been friendly, we were allowed to stay late, clean up and avoid any late fees. We had seriously worried as the van involved a bit of financial splurging to begin with. Paying for an extra day for only twenty minutes' use sounded awful.
Now that we're in Fiji, it seems as though we're benefiting from kindness Karma. Everybody here is so frienly and inviting. We spent a few days in paradise on Mana Island. We enjoyed Kava (a local drink) and local singing, dancing and cooking while celebrating Cheri's 26th and our 2 1/2 year anniversary.
Tomorrow we fly to New Zealand where I hope to be able to upload some pictures of this gorgeous place. Unfortunately, our visit to Fiji coincided withe the Fiji Peace Corps close of service conference so again we missed out on seeing Peace Corps villages.
Maybe in Chile or Peru?
Love to all.
In Australia, Cheri and I rented a campervan. We drove to Byron Bay, hiked a surprisingly grueling Mt. Warning and enjoyed beach time and blending in. For the first time in months, we could walk down the street without drawing too much attention. We did get a few looks when be broke out shampoo, body wash and towels when using the showers at the beach. Though we could cook for ourselves, sleep when we wanted and go where we wanted, getting clean in the campervan required ingenuity. When returning the campervan, we broke the 10 hour drive into two parts. We got going early on the second day, went to a few "urban Koala sites" with no luck. The only stereotypically Australian animals we managed to see were a roadkill Kangaroo and a caged Koala. Too bad. After failing to spot Koala's we were on our way to Sydney again. Time was ticking away as traffic thickened and it seemed that we'd miss our deadline for returning the campervan. We called while in traffic, filled the tank, washed the van, packed up and got to the site twenty minutes late. Because we'd called and been friendly, we were allowed to stay late, clean up and avoid any late fees. We had seriously worried as the van involved a bit of financial splurging to begin with. Paying for an extra day for only twenty minutes' use sounded awful.
Now that we're in Fiji, it seems as though we're benefiting from kindness Karma. Everybody here is so frienly and inviting. We spent a few days in paradise on Mana Island. We enjoyed Kava (a local drink) and local singing, dancing and cooking while celebrating Cheri's 26th and our 2 1/2 year anniversary.
Tomorrow we fly to New Zealand where I hope to be able to upload some pictures of this gorgeous place. Unfortunately, our visit to Fiji coincided withe the Fiji Peace Corps close of service conference so again we missed out on seeing Peace Corps villages.
Maybe in Chile or Peru?
Love to all.
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Living in a van
Meeting people along the path of our travels has really helped out of late. We were able to crash with Brett and Bonnie (met in Ghana) in Singapore, a couple from our Bollywood days in Sydney and a girl Laura whom I met in Budapest, also in Syndey. Being able to get a local view and a few homecooked meals along the way has been a real treat. Cutting costs in these expensive cities has also been a help.
Since Syndey, Cheri and I have been living in a hi-top camper van. We've driven ten hours to Byron Bay and have been cooking and sleeping in the van. We've actually gotten better sleep these past few days than we have in ages. Two couches in the back fold out into a firm double bed. We've been able to grocery shop and use the mini-fridge and propane stove for food. We're more free than we've been in a long time and no longer have to rush to catch long buses or worry about much of a timetable.
We'll be in Byron Bay until heading back through Sydney and on to Fiji. I can't believe we're going to Fiji!! I wrote a paper about Fiji back in 7th grade and have always thought it to be somewhat of a mythical place. We have been in touch with a few Peace Corps volunteers there and hope to get to see the village life there.
I'll update soon. For now, we're ducking away from a short rain storm before heading to the beach.
Love to all.
Since Syndey, Cheri and I have been living in a hi-top camper van. We've driven ten hours to Byron Bay and have been cooking and sleeping in the van. We've actually gotten better sleep these past few days than we have in ages. Two couches in the back fold out into a firm double bed. We've been able to grocery shop and use the mini-fridge and propane stove for food. We're more free than we've been in a long time and no longer have to rush to catch long buses or worry about much of a timetable.
We'll be in Byron Bay until heading back through Sydney and on to Fiji. I can't believe we're going to Fiji!! I wrote a paper about Fiji back in 7th grade and have always thought it to be somewhat of a mythical place. We have been in touch with a few Peace Corps volunteers there and hope to get to see the village life there.
I'll update soon. For now, we're ducking away from a short rain storm before heading to the beach.
Love to all.
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Mentawai
If you told me three days that I would take an uncomfortable overnight boat to a sketchy powerboat to a remote island where I'd get pounded by waves, cut my feet on reef and bow out after less than an hour. And if you told me that I would leave a few hours later to take the same powerboat to the same overnight boat and be completely satisfied by the experience, I may not believe it.
The Mentawai Islands are like surf Mecca to many. I didn't know this and when looking through guide books and on the internet, few specific places were mentioned. I had endured enough tourist swamped locations and didn't want to go to Bali so I went to the Mentawai Islands from Padang.
Shortly after disembarking, I called over two fellows with surfboards slung over their shoulders. They agreed to split the cost of the speedboat charter. After a small breakfast and some coffee, we were off. The pair of British guys had been traveling through Indonesia from surfspot to surfspot for 4 months and had 3 weeks left. One of them has been doing this for 5 years straight and is only 22 years old. I warned them that I was no good at surfing and that I could only stay one night. They picked up supplies for a week as there are no shops or markets on Nyangnyang where we were headed. An hour and a great downpour later, the boat was filled with groceries and we were on our way. Rain and sea spray soaked us within minutes but the narrow mangrove forrest route we took was worth it. A few close calls with other boats and dug-out canoes kept it exciting as we gradually made it to open water. We passed seaside homes and fishing boats and after just over an hour, we made it.
We offloaded the boat and instantly met a few other surfers who told us that the conditions were the worst they'd seen in their three weeks on the island. They planned to stay through September if possible.
After deliberating over which of the many surfspots to venture towards, we chose the closest. A twenty minute walk took us to the spot and it was time to paddle out. I have some experience on small waves on a buoyant and forgiving longboard leading to a soft beach break. This day, I was on a borrowed 6'6" board on large, powerful waves and ruthless reef break. A few strokes into paddling out I knew I was WAY out of my league. The four guys I was with took off with ease, powering along with the well formed back muscles they'd been using day in and day out. I quickly fell behind and after the 200 or so meters of paddling it took to go around the reef, I was already exhausted.
I took a breather and got a feel for where the waves were breaking but I was still quite gunshy. The guys around me were off and running, each with their share of good rides and wipeouts. I missed a few waves before finally getting the timing right but the ability all wrong and I got tossed. In the tumult, I lost hold of my board and re-surfaced to a scared and appropriately upset fellow surfer who'd almost been skewered by my board. Duck diving waves on the way back out, I was getting more and more fatigued and after not too long I called it in for the sake of everyone involved. I sat and enjoyed watching the others surf, getting no grief from them when the came in.
"They were terrible conditions, awful for learning. Like learning to ski on moguls."
"You're a legend for even making the effort to come for a day, I've been in Indo for 5 years and just made it."
Kind words even though I felt defeated. This is a place worth working up to. Take a look for yourselves. A video of a fellow UCSB Gaucho and his brothers. The conditions in the video are much better than when I was there but either way, I was way out of my element.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDG0PjCWyrE
The Mentawai Islands are like surf Mecca to many. I didn't know this and when looking through guide books and on the internet, few specific places were mentioned. I had endured enough tourist swamped locations and didn't want to go to Bali so I went to the Mentawai Islands from Padang.
Shortly after disembarking, I called over two fellows with surfboards slung over their shoulders. They agreed to split the cost of the speedboat charter. After a small breakfast and some coffee, we were off. The pair of British guys had been traveling through Indonesia from surfspot to surfspot for 4 months and had 3 weeks left. One of them has been doing this for 5 years straight and is only 22 years old. I warned them that I was no good at surfing and that I could only stay one night. They picked up supplies for a week as there are no shops or markets on Nyangnyang where we were headed. An hour and a great downpour later, the boat was filled with groceries and we were on our way. Rain and sea spray soaked us within minutes but the narrow mangrove forrest route we took was worth it. A few close calls with other boats and dug-out canoes kept it exciting as we gradually made it to open water. We passed seaside homes and fishing boats and after just over an hour, we made it.
We offloaded the boat and instantly met a few other surfers who told us that the conditions were the worst they'd seen in their three weeks on the island. They planned to stay through September if possible.
After deliberating over which of the many surfspots to venture towards, we chose the closest. A twenty minute walk took us to the spot and it was time to paddle out. I have some experience on small waves on a buoyant and forgiving longboard leading to a soft beach break. This day, I was on a borrowed 6'6" board on large, powerful waves and ruthless reef break. A few strokes into paddling out I knew I was WAY out of my league. The four guys I was with took off with ease, powering along with the well formed back muscles they'd been using day in and day out. I quickly fell behind and after the 200 or so meters of paddling it took to go around the reef, I was already exhausted.
I took a breather and got a feel for where the waves were breaking but I was still quite gunshy. The guys around me were off and running, each with their share of good rides and wipeouts. I missed a few waves before finally getting the timing right but the ability all wrong and I got tossed. In the tumult, I lost hold of my board and re-surfaced to a scared and appropriately upset fellow surfer who'd almost been skewered by my board. Duck diving waves on the way back out, I was getting more and more fatigued and after not too long I called it in for the sake of everyone involved. I sat and enjoyed watching the others surf, getting no grief from them when the came in.
"They were terrible conditions, awful for learning. Like learning to ski on moguls."
"You're a legend for even making the effort to come for a day, I've been in Indo for 5 years and just made it."
Kind words even though I felt defeated. This is a place worth working up to. Take a look for yourselves. A video of a fellow UCSB Gaucho and his brothers. The conditions in the video are much better than when I was there but either way, I was way out of my element.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDG0PjCWyrE
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Looking back
I can only give a brief entry on the time spent in Vietnam but want to do so before it's too far in the past. A 30 hour "sleeper" bus brought us from Vang Vient go Hanoi. The sleeper consisted of an overcrowded bus with reclining seats that had foot cubbyholes. My feet only fit in the cubbyholes at certain angles and I was too tall for the seat but it was manageable.
I loved Hanoi instantly. Cheri and I decided not to go with the hawkers who boarded the bus immediately upon arrival. Instead, we wandered the street to find food and took a taxi to a hotel. We paid a bit more but got a better feel of the place.
The next morning, we took a bus to a boat to Ha Long Bay. The first stop made me nauseous. The geologically awesome cave filled with stalagmites and stalactites was turned into Disneyland Vietnam. We waited in line after line in order to work our way around crowds of people posing for photos, climbing over barriers and pushing through to get as many pictures of the purple and pink lighted cave.
It could only get better and it certainly did. A bit more time on the boat showed us the gorgeous landscape of jutting islands in calm water. Boatmen sold goods like you'd expect street hawkers to do. Boats filled with chips, drinks and fruit.
We were dropped off and because we were piecing our trip together, we didn't stay in the tour affiliated hotel. Instead, we paid 5 dollars between us for an ocean view, third floor room with a hot shower!!! So nice!!
We left Ha Long Bay to meet up with a couchsurfing connection. Not knowing what to expect, we were pleased to meet a Vietnamese business owner and her British NGO executive husband. We were treated well, got to relax and discussed our goals. On our last full day in Vietnam (much too short a trip) we aimed to go to a national park. I thought that we were spending too much time "doing things." I couldn't put it better but felt that Following tour books every day was keeping us from seeing the places we were visiting. Instead, we wandered around Hanoi and felt great. Aimless and care free how I like it.
Unfortunately, my ATM card was lost somewhere in Vietnam so I've been working to fix that situation. My saviors in Singapore helped me by using their address as my new mailing address and lending me cash for my Indonesia leg. Yesterday, however, I had only foreign currency on a Sunday. I had to use my passport as collateral at a hotel and wandered the HOT and HUMID Padang city hungry and useless. Today, a friendly bank assistant took me around on his moto, being sure to show me some of the destruction from last September's Earthquake. There are huge splits in the asphalt and destroyed buildings all around the city. A bit out of the loop regarding world news, I only remembered there being the huge earthquake in 2007. The language barrier kept me from learning too much before visiting Google this morning.
Now I hope to get a day on the Mentawai islands. I will try to surf if it's not too far out of my ability level.
Love to all!!
I loved Hanoi instantly. Cheri and I decided not to go with the hawkers who boarded the bus immediately upon arrival. Instead, we wandered the street to find food and took a taxi to a hotel. We paid a bit more but got a better feel of the place.
The next morning, we took a bus to a boat to Ha Long Bay. The first stop made me nauseous. The geologically awesome cave filled with stalagmites and stalactites was turned into Disneyland Vietnam. We waited in line after line in order to work our way around crowds of people posing for photos, climbing over barriers and pushing through to get as many pictures of the purple and pink lighted cave.
It could only get better and it certainly did. A bit more time on the boat showed us the gorgeous landscape of jutting islands in calm water. Boatmen sold goods like you'd expect street hawkers to do. Boats filled with chips, drinks and fruit.
We were dropped off and because we were piecing our trip together, we didn't stay in the tour affiliated hotel. Instead, we paid 5 dollars between us for an ocean view, third floor room with a hot shower!!! So nice!!
We left Ha Long Bay to meet up with a couchsurfing connection. Not knowing what to expect, we were pleased to meet a Vietnamese business owner and her British NGO executive husband. We were treated well, got to relax and discussed our goals. On our last full day in Vietnam (much too short a trip) we aimed to go to a national park. I thought that we were spending too much time "doing things." I couldn't put it better but felt that Following tour books every day was keeping us from seeing the places we were visiting. Instead, we wandered around Hanoi and felt great. Aimless and care free how I like it.
Unfortunately, my ATM card was lost somewhere in Vietnam so I've been working to fix that situation. My saviors in Singapore helped me by using their address as my new mailing address and lending me cash for my Indonesia leg. Yesterday, however, I had only foreign currency on a Sunday. I had to use my passport as collateral at a hotel and wandered the HOT and HUMID Padang city hungry and useless. Today, a friendly bank assistant took me around on his moto, being sure to show me some of the destruction from last September's Earthquake. There are huge splits in the asphalt and destroyed buildings all around the city. A bit out of the loop regarding world news, I only remembered there being the huge earthquake in 2007. The language barrier kept me from learning too much before visiting Google this morning.
Now I hope to get a day on the Mentawai islands. I will try to surf if it's not too far out of my ability level.
Love to all!!
Saturday, March 27, 2010
Hmm
I am now in Padang, on Sumatra in Indonesia. It is dumping rain and the local transport (small van with colored lights and blaring music) dropped me off where I asked but now it doesn't seem to be where I want to be. I feel safe though tired. There haven't been too many days like this. Starting this long travel journey, I expected there to be more days with no proper communication, bad weather, exhaustion and confusion. Here it is!!
Just looking at March Madness and baseball news while the weather subsides.
Love to all.
Just looking at March Madness and baseball news while the weather subsides.
Love to all.
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
A changed man
After romping with Tigers and Elephants, riding a bamboo raft and visiting hill tribes, Megan, Cheri and I headed into Laos.
Before crossing the border, we met a fun couple that shared our path. A French woman and American man, the pair met while in Australia over a year ago and have traveled together on and off since.
An overnight bus took us to Luang Prabang, a nice slow, relaxing place in Laos. Megan only had a few hours before she had to head to the airport (an overnight bus and a new Visa just to catch a flight due to a change in plans) so Cheri and I teamed up with the other couple.
On our first full day together, the four of us hired a tuk tuk and traveled to some nearby waterfalls. You may think the same thing that I did... more waterfalls? Somehow they just don't get old. This set-up was one in which we got to see the Laos countryside before visiting a bear refuge and finally visiting a series of waterfalls. Hours of hiking, sweating and feeling disappointed finally found us at a sign that read "Do not swimming." So we went ahead and checked it out.
This place may have been the inspiration for the infinity pool. Waterfalls ranging from four feet to well over forty feet fed into a surprisingly calm pool perfect for swimming. The edge of this pool led to a drop of nearly ten stories but the water was shallow enough to allow one to walk up and look over the edge the the waterfall below.
A few days later, in Vang Vieng, Cheri and I joined the couple for a day of rock climbing. Having climbed man made climbing walls only a few times in my life, I was by far the least experienced of our group. I learned a great deal but relied too much on upper body strength and was totally drained for the last two climbs. Feeling the wonderful fatigue of a day well spent, we cooled off by taking a huge zip line into the nearby river.
The following day, we all did was most travelers in Vang Vieng choose to do. We went "tubing." We had heard that the water level was too low to actually need a tube so we took advantage of free shots and plenty of hugs swings and zip lines into the river. A few years ago, I think that I may have been more interested in the free shots than the activities but the adrenaline was enough of a buzz for me. St. Patricks Day was the following day and sticking to our budget, Cheri and I went bar hopping in a way that allowed a free drink at each bar. Maybe I'm old or maybe I'm more comfortable with myself but I was ready to call it in early rather than wait for the sun to chase me to bed.
I still need to update my time in Vietnam. This will teach me to procrastinate while traveling. More to come.
Love to all. I'm in Singapore again before heading to Indonesia solo tomorrow. Enjoy March Madness!!!
Monday, March 15, 2010
A quick one
Internet is crazy expensive here in Vang Vieng, Laos. The town is full of people aiming to get drunk and float down a river on inner tubes (but the river is too low so they walk). Instead, Cheri and I did some great rock climbing yesterday with another couple we met during our travels. It was an exhausting but excellent day.
Much of this region is based around the Mekong but due to Chinese dams, the river is incredibly low. Slow boats that are a hit with tourists are not running and drunk tubers become drunk walkers.
I will update more when I have cheaper internet access.
In the B-school world, no decisions will be made until waitlist situations are sorted out. The wait continues.
Love to all.
Much of this region is based around the Mekong but due to Chinese dams, the river is incredibly low. Slow boats that are a hit with tourists are not running and drunk tubers become drunk walkers.
I will update more when I have cheaper internet access.
In the B-school world, no decisions will be made until waitlist situations are sorted out. The wait continues.
Love to all.
Monday, March 8, 2010
Not a bad way to wait
With business school responses slowly approaching, I have managed to fill my days to the brim, keeping my mind at bay as much as possible.
Thanks to forethought and planning my Cheri's sister Carrie, four of us (two sib pairs) woke early after a day of temples, markets and relaxing at a 5 star hotel (feels like 95 stars after backpacking and Ghana).
Our tour guide Tong approached with more energy than the four of us combined and had me thinking that the day might be too much. We were briefed on the plan for the day and Tong repeatedly told us that if we were to get the most out of the day, we would have to follow her lead without question. We started with a visit to a local Bangkok market that stretches across train tracks. Each stall has tables on wheels to make for easy and quick motion when the train comes. We say pig tails, fish sauce, blue crabs and many other things for sale but didn't have much time to linger as there was more to do.
Our next stop was the floating market. Touristy but beautiful, we floated in a long boat among other boats full of tourists. We ate great Thai noodles, drank iced coffee from a bag and admired the merchants when not haggling for goods. We shopped a bit but had to keep moving if we were to arrive at the Tiger temple at the ideal time.
A bit more than an hour in the car and we arrived at the Tiger temple. Tong dispelled rumors of Tiger drugging but agreed with criticisms of the overall layout of the temple. The Tigers are well taken care of but live in an environment far different from their natural habitat. After getting the run down, it was time to "get happy." at the gender appropriate restroom and get ready to see some tigers. Though many other tourists were milling around the entrance, our group of four was the first to enter. We were the first to be signed up to feed baby tigers and we were the first to take photos with the big tigers.
The experience was above and beyond my hopes. I first heard of the Tiger temple five years ago when a college friend had the experience. I thought that it would be closed before I had the opportunity so when I was kneeling behind 500 lb tigers nad feeding a 4 month old out of a baby bottle, I was elated. We started by walking up behind full grown tigers and having photos taken. We did this for a bit and as our adrenaline started to slow a bit, it was time to feed the babies. We went into a caged in play area of maybe 25' x 20' with three baby tigers, three workers and the four of us. We were told that we should never turn our backs on the tigers but once in there, I followed a cute 2 month old, trying to get her to play with me. Almost immediately, the vivacious 4 month old leapt onto my back, ripping my shirt and instantly proving herself my favorite. We spent nearly an hour playing with the tigers (not dissimilar to playing with big, bumbling puppies) before we got to settle down and feed them. Paws the size of small fists rested on our laps as the playful tiger cubs settled down into feeding mode. It was a great experience to share with Megan as she and I fed the fun 4 month old.
We took a few more photos with full grown tigers before rushing off to ride elephants. Seriously, we went from feeding baby tigers to riding bareback on large Asian elephants. Tong handed us each bundles of bananas and told us to bribe our elephants before our ride. We could put the bananas (one at a time or in bunches) in the end of the trunk or directly on the huge slimy tongue. We fed each of our two elephants around fifty bananas apiece before climbing aboard. Tong warned us that we would be brought into the water and shaken off by the playful performers. If we didn't fight to stay on, the elephants might think that they were doing a bad job and be sad. When we got into the water, sitting on the bare back of a beautiful beast, the shaking did not start. Our elephant simply knelt down with her head below water. It was hard enough to hold on at such an extreme angle while laughing as Carrie and Cheri were sprayed repeatedly by their elephant. The next hour exhausted us all as we climbed aboard and were summarily launched into mud and dung filled water. We could hang onto ears, handfuls of skin or anything else we could grasp but seldom were we able to hang on for long. On our way back to Bangkok, we discussed our arrogance in thinking that we could possibly hang on when the elephant really wanted us off. The weight disparity is roughly that of a newborn baby to a man my size. While I would never throw a newborn baby into a lake full of elephant dung, I know that if I really, really wanted to, I could do it.
Exhausted, we finished our tour walking along the bridge over the river Kwai. The bridge and the history that surrounds it gave a new perspective on the region to say the least. We spent only a brief time at the railroad bridge before settling in at our riverside guesthouse and getting hour long Thai massages.
The following day, we hiked to seven water falls at Erawan falls. Monkeys played on branches above us and fish ate the dead skin off of our toes when we went for the occasional dip (no need to pay at the spa). The views were gorgeous and the water felt good on our tired, aching muscles.
Carrie has since gone back to the states while Cheri, Megan and I have traveled (by 17 hour train) to Chiang Mai. We trekked to see hill tribes, swim in water falls, take a bamboo raft trip and ride elephants again. I had the joy of being nuzzled by a 5 month old elephant baby this morning. Hoping to get a good photo, I walked closer that initially felt comfortable with a mother so close. After some time, the baby turned and walked a a fairly fast pace right up to me and rubbed against my leg like a 220 lb. kitten. Oddly, when planning the trek, we discussed the fact that we had alrady ridden elephants and seen water falls. Neither seem to get old, I must say. I love today. Now I have a matter of hour to wait before hearing form b-schools. We shall see what happens but the wait has been easier on elephant back than it ever would have been in a cubicle. I am thankful for that.
Love to all.
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Under water to on a train
My five days on Perhentian Island were much needed and very much enjoyed. After cranking through the scuba course, I took a day to walk to to a gorgeous beach. Having seen the beach from one of my dives, I thought that the walk would be easy. Over an hour of climbing rocks in my sandals in the mid-day sun proved otherwise but left me on a white sand beach all on my own. Soaked in sweat, I read in the shade and enjoyed the solitude and rest, taking occasional dips in the clear blue water.
Too tired to take the rock route back, I walked through the jungle, dodging massive spiders but making much better time with a nice cover of shade. On my last day on the Perhentians, I took a snorkeling trip. The first stop had us swimming with Black Tipped Reef Sharks. Our second stop had us swimming among thousands of brightly colored fish. Our guide would give us a small nibble of bread and in minutes it would be ripped apart by out tiny swimming companions. Our third stop was all about sea turtles. It wasn't quite the same as the others however. The water wasn't as clear and the turtles were FAST. The boat would circle around until a turtle was spotted and tourists from three tour boats would jump in and give chase. One chase was enough for me and I stayed in the boat to keep my pinched feet out of my too tight fins. Stop four brought us to a light house. We took turns jumping 35 feet from the top into the ripping current below. The spot was beautiful but it took serious energy just to swim in place. One jump from the lighthouse pulled my bauxite bracelet from my wrist and sent it to the coral below. The Arabian Sea stole my ring and the South China Sea has my bracelet. The experience is worth the trade but it's still a bummer.
A boat to a bus to another bus to a 22 hour train to a took took brought me to the super fancy hotel at which I'm writing this entry. A hung out for a few hours before Megan arrived. We've had a great time wandering and enjoying an early celebration of her birthday. We are sorting out plans for the rest of the day and the days to come. We will meet Cheri and her sister tomorrow and then go to bathe tigers and ride elephants shortly thereafter. Sharks, sea turtles, tigers and elephants are helping me stay pre-occupied as my business school dates approach. One and two weeks from response deadlines from Duke and Michigan respectively. Eek!!
Love to all.
Too tired to take the rock route back, I walked through the jungle, dodging massive spiders but making much better time with a nice cover of shade. On my last day on the Perhentians, I took a snorkeling trip. The first stop had us swimming with Black Tipped Reef Sharks. Our second stop had us swimming among thousands of brightly colored fish. Our guide would give us a small nibble of bread and in minutes it would be ripped apart by out tiny swimming companions. Our third stop was all about sea turtles. It wasn't quite the same as the others however. The water wasn't as clear and the turtles were FAST. The boat would circle around until a turtle was spotted and tourists from three tour boats would jump in and give chase. One chase was enough for me and I stayed in the boat to keep my pinched feet out of my too tight fins. Stop four brought us to a light house. We took turns jumping 35 feet from the top into the ripping current below. The spot was beautiful but it took serious energy just to swim in place. One jump from the lighthouse pulled my bauxite bracelet from my wrist and sent it to the coral below. The Arabian Sea stole my ring and the South China Sea has my bracelet. The experience is worth the trade but it's still a bummer.
A boat to a bus to another bus to a 22 hour train to a took took brought me to the super fancy hotel at which I'm writing this entry. A hung out for a few hours before Megan arrived. We've had a great time wandering and enjoying an early celebration of her birthday. We are sorting out plans for the rest of the day and the days to come. We will meet Cheri and her sister tomorrow and then go to bathe tigers and ride elephants shortly thereafter. Sharks, sea turtles, tigers and elephants are helping me stay pre-occupied as my business school dates approach. One and two weeks from response deadlines from Duke and Michigan respectively. Eek!!
Love to all.
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Changing gears
I left India with a wide variety of new experiences under my belt. I loved the country (many travelers either love it or hate it) but was ready for the next leg.
Traveling solo again, I flew to Singapore and met two Ghana RPCVs from a few years before my own service. Cheri met the couple in December and they offered a place to stay. I didn't know what to expect but met thepair and their Siberian huskie at a mall on the very efficient MRT line. They brought me to their house and right up to the 24th floor. The elevator opened to a beautiful house, covered by a nice ex-pat work package. It was a very nice place to relax (especially in an expensive city).
I spent two days reading, hanging out by the pool and relaxing. I did laundry in a machine (shrunk some trousers in the dryer) and the three of us went to a Chinese New Year parade. I learned the different routes around their neighborhood. We seldom went outside, walking in air conditioned malls and hospitals instead of enduring the heat and humidity. Though strict, and likely because it's strict, Singapore seems to be a nice place to live. The city is clean and safe. There are signs for $500 fines for drinking water on the subway or $1000 for riding your bicycle where you shouldn't. I learned that when getting caned, you can choose the long cane, getting bigger scars but less immediate pain or the short cane, getting smaller scars but far greater pain. I am happy that I don't have to choose.
From Singapore, I took the MRT to a bus, across the Malaysian border to an overnight train. The train put Indian trains to shame, I had a small mattress, a pillow, a sheet and a curtain to close out the light. I slept great!! I woke up, got a taxi, got on a speedboat and came to paradise.
Feeling antisocial, I threw in my ipod while on the speedboat. The combination of warm air, good music, high speed and surrounding smiles made me feel really great. I had a smile on my face the whole time.
On Perhentian Island in the South China Sea, I have seen 6 foot lizards, massive spiders and beautiful surrounds. I'm on my third day of scuba certification today. I spent a total of ninety minutes under water yesterday, learning what to do when I lose my regulator, when I run out of air, when I lose my mask etc. It's really great and I'm looking forward to the day. I will meet Megan in Bangkok on Feb. 28. Until then, I'm chillin here.
Love to all.
Traveling solo again, I flew to Singapore and met two Ghana RPCVs from a few years before my own service. Cheri met the couple in December and they offered a place to stay. I didn't know what to expect but met thepair and their Siberian huskie at a mall on the very efficient MRT line. They brought me to their house and right up to the 24th floor. The elevator opened to a beautiful house, covered by a nice ex-pat work package. It was a very nice place to relax (especially in an expensive city).
I spent two days reading, hanging out by the pool and relaxing. I did laundry in a machine (shrunk some trousers in the dryer) and the three of us went to a Chinese New Year parade. I learned the different routes around their neighborhood. We seldom went outside, walking in air conditioned malls and hospitals instead of enduring the heat and humidity. Though strict, and likely because it's strict, Singapore seems to be a nice place to live. The city is clean and safe. There are signs for $500 fines for drinking water on the subway or $1000 for riding your bicycle where you shouldn't. I learned that when getting caned, you can choose the long cane, getting bigger scars but less immediate pain or the short cane, getting smaller scars but far greater pain. I am happy that I don't have to choose.
From Singapore, I took the MRT to a bus, across the Malaysian border to an overnight train. The train put Indian trains to shame, I had a small mattress, a pillow, a sheet and a curtain to close out the light. I slept great!! I woke up, got a taxi, got on a speedboat and came to paradise.
Feeling antisocial, I threw in my ipod while on the speedboat. The combination of warm air, good music, high speed and surrounding smiles made me feel really great. I had a smile on my face the whole time.
On Perhentian Island in the South China Sea, I have seen 6 foot lizards, massive spiders and beautiful surrounds. I'm on my third day of scuba certification today. I spent a total of ninety minutes under water yesterday, learning what to do when I lose my regulator, when I run out of air, when I lose my mask etc. It's really great and I'm looking forward to the day. I will meet Megan in Bangkok on Feb. 28. Until then, I'm chillin here.
Love to all.
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Days in Mumbai
Having slept on a luxury overnight bus from Goa to Mumbai, Cheri and I were immediately latched onto by a persistent taxi driver. Insisting that we didn't want a taxi, we lugged our bags back and forth on the sidewalk while figuring out where to go. The bus told us that we were being let off at the closest stop to Colaba yet those around us were telling us that we were 25km away from Colaba.
A friendly young onlooker removed his headphones and decided to help us, enduring the subsequent scorn from our leach of a cabbie. We got in a taxi, got to Colaba and paid less than half of the original quoted price.
We had read in our guidebook that hanging around Colaba is a good way to land a gig as an extra in a Bollywood film. We didn't know where we were supposed to hang out but didn't need to worry about is as we were approached before getting our bags out of the taxi. Two more approaches during the day made it apparent that any young westerner would be approached as long as they left their hostel.
Conflicting schedules meant that Cheri and I would go as extras on different days. I had business school interviews Tuesday and Thursday while Cheri flew to Delhi on Wednesday.
I got back from what I felt was a better than average interview and rested for most of the remaining day. Cheri came back after a 14 hour day with stories of her red sequined bartending outfit from her day on set. The next morning, I rushed around, trying to get packed and moved into a new room while saying goodbye to Cheri before getting to a meeting point around 7:15am. Ready to give up on Bollywood, things came together at the last minute and I was off to my big pay day of 500 rupees (about 11 US dollars).
Most of the day consisted of sitting around in odd costumes. I was in a ripply burgundy silk shirt with a huge collar while others were in odd vests, short skirts and more. The group of 40 plus extras varied from 19 year old bearded Swedish hippies to petite girls you might think would be Hollywood extras or actresses. We sat, were fed, jumped around for 20 second takes as four of Bollywoods biggest stars romped around on top of a bar. I sat in the background as a choreographed dance roared around me. For the last scene, I had to dance on a stairway next to a 5'3" Swedish guy and a baby faced Finnish dude. I feel self conscious dancing with a girl while drunk in a dark bar so dancing under bright lights with dudes on stairs while wearing a floofy shirt with a camera rolling was a bit outside my comfort zone. Many takes were needed and a lot of attention was paid to my area of the shot. The director and her assistants kept asking for energy and at one point yelled "the white guys just can't move!" which I hope referred to the spastic redhead on a platform behind me and not to myself.
It turned out to be a great day and more than half of us went out for a beer afterward. We had people from Estonia, Finland, Sweden, Holland, Germany, Austria and the US chatting over beers and travel stories in a restaurant that had me dragging my ear on the short ceiling.
Today, I came back from my final interview with no travel companion, no business school work to do and no more dancing. I fly to Singapore tomorrow and will wait the next few weeks for replies from business school.
On to the next leg.
Love to all!
First pictures in a while. From Goa and Mumbai. My new suit in the hostel hallway
Saturday, February 13, 2010
Still tingling
Udaipur offered more relaxation than I knew I needed. At no point in our trip were we not negotiating plans in order to mak a specified train time. Sure, we missed some of those train times but we have been working with some cushion. In Udaipur, we got to rest on that cushion.
On the morning of our first full day in Udaipur, we attended an 8:30am yoga class near our hostel. We met a nice fellow American after class and he told us about an amazing Swami who held an evening yoga class overlooking the beautiful lake. We made it to the class, had another 90 minutes of great stretching and awe led by Swami Sudhir (look him up on YouTube.
The next day, we went to Swami Sudhir for morning and evening sessions, stopping to have my measurements taken for new suit between.
After three full, wonderful days in Udaipur, we left more limber, more rested and with me carrying a great suit. We spent a night in Ahmedabad without being much impressed and then we boarded our 20 hour train to Goa!
We bought tickets ten days in advance yet had to share one sleeper berth. The trip was relatively uneventful. We managed to steal naps in berths while they were unoccupied and when the time came, we squeezed into our shared birth as others slept on newspaper beds and strewn across aisles. I felt lucky and surprisingly well rested when we arrived to the gorgeous state of Goa a bit after 6am.
Once we were finally able to check into our hostel, we headed to the beach and stayed at the beach. A nice Indian dinner and a nice sleep got us back to normal. Unfortunately, when I took a quick dip in the Arabian Sea, the ring that I've worn non-stop for over six and a half years left me. I found a similar ring at a Tibetan art fair but it's definitely not the same.
Today, Cheri and I rented a scooter and drove 30km to a spice plantation. We got a tour from a charismatic guide, learning about various spices that nobody could guess from seeing them in plant form. Even a good whiff kept us stumped in certain situations. I haven't driven a scooter since my days in Newport in 2005 but it came back pretty fast. Newport had nowhere near the number of huge trucks passing on two lane highways though. This trip was INTENSE!! I was cautious and conservative but couldn't help but feel a little rattled at times.
After making it through the 'Accident Prone Zone' areas we actually ran out of gas. It was my own fault as I inaccurately figured how long we would have with our non-functioning fuel gauge. Within minutes, Cheri was getting help on one side of the road while I had offers for help next to the scooter. One motorist gave us a few ounces of petrol so that we could make it to the next station. Full of laughs and gratitude, we made it off the highway shoulder only minutes after two moto-riders slid into a median. I am happy to be away from the scary traffic.
We leave on an overnight bus for Mumbai tomorrow night. I will have a little over 24 hours to rest up before interviews at 11am and 3pm with Duke and Michigan business schools respectively. Fingers crossed. I only hope my words will sound as great as my new suit looks.
Love to all,
On the morning of our first full day in Udaipur, we attended an 8:30am yoga class near our hostel. We met a nice fellow American after class and he told us about an amazing Swami who held an evening yoga class overlooking the beautiful lake. We made it to the class, had another 90 minutes of great stretching and awe led by Swami Sudhir (look him up on YouTube.
The next day, we went to Swami Sudhir for morning and evening sessions, stopping to have my measurements taken for new suit between.
After three full, wonderful days in Udaipur, we left more limber, more rested and with me carrying a great suit. We spent a night in Ahmedabad without being much impressed and then we boarded our 20 hour train to Goa!
We bought tickets ten days in advance yet had to share one sleeper berth. The trip was relatively uneventful. We managed to steal naps in berths while they were unoccupied and when the time came, we squeezed into our shared birth as others slept on newspaper beds and strewn across aisles. I felt lucky and surprisingly well rested when we arrived to the gorgeous state of Goa a bit after 6am.
Once we were finally able to check into our hostel, we headed to the beach and stayed at the beach. A nice Indian dinner and a nice sleep got us back to normal. Unfortunately, when I took a quick dip in the Arabian Sea, the ring that I've worn non-stop for over six and a half years left me. I found a similar ring at a Tibetan art fair but it's definitely not the same.
Today, Cheri and I rented a scooter and drove 30km to a spice plantation. We got a tour from a charismatic guide, learning about various spices that nobody could guess from seeing them in plant form. Even a good whiff kept us stumped in certain situations. I haven't driven a scooter since my days in Newport in 2005 but it came back pretty fast. Newport had nowhere near the number of huge trucks passing on two lane highways though. This trip was INTENSE!! I was cautious and conservative but couldn't help but feel a little rattled at times.
After making it through the 'Accident Prone Zone' areas we actually ran out of gas. It was my own fault as I inaccurately figured how long we would have with our non-functioning fuel gauge. Within minutes, Cheri was getting help on one side of the road while I had offers for help next to the scooter. One motorist gave us a few ounces of petrol so that we could make it to the next station. Full of laughs and gratitude, we made it off the highway shoulder only minutes after two moto-riders slid into a median. I am happy to be away from the scary traffic.
We leave on an overnight bus for Mumbai tomorrow night. I will have a little over 24 hours to rest up before interviews at 11am and 3pm with Duke and Michigan business schools respectively. Fingers crossed. I only hope my words will sound as great as my new suit looks.
Love to all,
Saturday, February 6, 2010
Carepool, carepool, carepool
Arriving late in Allahabad, we were unable to book a train before the ticket office closed. Having had success with a waiting list ticket in Agra, we bought a ticket to Jaipur early the next morning and had a wander around. At the time of our train, we were still on the waiting list and would have to take our chances.
We boarded that 12pm train when it arrived at 1:35pm. With all of the bunks full, we felt out the situation and Cheri finally asked a friendly man about a seemingly empty bunk. The bunk turned out to be occupied but we were told that two people would be departing at the next stop and we would be able to take their bunks. We stashed our bags where space was available, we sat and we waited.
Within minutes, a little girl ten feet away began to poke her head out, disappearing at the slightest semblance of eye contact. This game continued for a while before the girl and her mother came over for an introduction. Apparently the girl had been telling her mother that a dee-dee (big sister) was sitting close and she wanted to shake hands. We joined the pair and sat with mother, father, 5 year old daughter and 2 year old son. We talked about life, religion, America, India, arranged marriages and more. Cheri and I were treated to cookies, chips, Indian food and of course great company.
With the train delay, we weren't scheduled to arrive until 2am. When the time came, we managed to get two berths (mine was not enclosed so I fit much better than last time).
Arriving in Jaipur a little after 2am, we learned that our preferred hostel was booked and we were ushered around by rickshaw until finding suitable accommodation. A few hours at a rooftop hookah bar and many hours wandering the gorgeous bazaars of the pink city allowed us to get our fill of Jaipur. We were off on another late night trip, this time to Pushkar.
We arrived in Pushkar at 1:30am and the first thing we saw was a man drawing a trailer full of hay by camel. The next thing was a mini stampede of a dozen cows. Soon, however, a nice young man brought us to his family guesthouse where we found very inexpensive accommodation for the remainder of the night.
Unsure about how long we would stay in Pushkar, Cheri and I left our hostel with the idea of getting bus times for Udaipur. On the way, we found a signboard for camel tours. Cheri stayed to sort out the camel tours while I continued to the bus station.
When leaving the bus station, I saw Cheri approaching on the back of a motorbike. I joined the motorbike and we settled on an overnight camel trip into a nearby village with our host Kalu. A few hours later, I boarded Ramjes with my ten year old guide Rahul behind me. Cheri boarded Krishna with Papa (I forget his real name) seated behind her. The view was great and the ride not terribly uncomfortable. Several children asked for school pens or rupees but for the most part we were left alone.
My guide Rahul spoke limited Enlish but repeatedly told me "you happy boss, me happy." When we approached tree limbs or plants, he would cautiously tell me "carepool sir, carepool, carepool, carepool." We had a playful game of debating who was the boss of whom with my insisting that he was in charge.
An added element to our trip was the fact that our two male camels were in heat. Without notice, they would explode with a loud gurgling sound (think of an exaggerated version of when your stomach tells you that you've eaten something terribly wrong) and their massive tongues would spew out from their closed mouths. It looked as though they were regurgitating their own stomachs but gave for a good laugh.
Upon arriving at Kalu's family home, we were greeted by grandmother, dog, dancing horse and many goats. After a short walk, several more family members arrived and Cheri and I each realized that we had been desperately craving family time. Watching Kalu's mother Santos prepare what turned out to be maybe the best meal of my life reminded me of Ghana. The joking nature and clear love shared among the family was a real treat and I hope to go back. An Australian business owner joined the group, explaining that she has stayed with Kalu and family for 4 years on and off when she comes for materials for her textile business. She was a clear member of the family and exacerbated the longing for Ghana. Cheri and I both loved and needed this night.
The next day, we walked the colorful, touristy main street of Pushkar before taking an overnight bus to Udaipur. The connecting bus from Pushkar to Ajmer had us picked up by a rickshaw but with no prior explanation, we felt a bit as though we were being abducted or led on a scam mission. Eventually we arrived at our correct bus and got to Udaipur this morning at 5am. I am taking a much needed rest/reorganization day while Cheri wanders the town.
More later.
Love to all
Ira
We boarded that 12pm train when it arrived at 1:35pm. With all of the bunks full, we felt out the situation and Cheri finally asked a friendly man about a seemingly empty bunk. The bunk turned out to be occupied but we were told that two people would be departing at the next stop and we would be able to take their bunks. We stashed our bags where space was available, we sat and we waited.
Within minutes, a little girl ten feet away began to poke her head out, disappearing at the slightest semblance of eye contact. This game continued for a while before the girl and her mother came over for an introduction. Apparently the girl had been telling her mother that a dee-dee (big sister) was sitting close and she wanted to shake hands. We joined the pair and sat with mother, father, 5 year old daughter and 2 year old son. We talked about life, religion, America, India, arranged marriages and more. Cheri and I were treated to cookies, chips, Indian food and of course great company.
With the train delay, we weren't scheduled to arrive until 2am. When the time came, we managed to get two berths (mine was not enclosed so I fit much better than last time).
Arriving in Jaipur a little after 2am, we learned that our preferred hostel was booked and we were ushered around by rickshaw until finding suitable accommodation. A few hours at a rooftop hookah bar and many hours wandering the gorgeous bazaars of the pink city allowed us to get our fill of Jaipur. We were off on another late night trip, this time to Pushkar.
We arrived in Pushkar at 1:30am and the first thing we saw was a man drawing a trailer full of hay by camel. The next thing was a mini stampede of a dozen cows. Soon, however, a nice young man brought us to his family guesthouse where we found very inexpensive accommodation for the remainder of the night.
Unsure about how long we would stay in Pushkar, Cheri and I left our hostel with the idea of getting bus times for Udaipur. On the way, we found a signboard for camel tours. Cheri stayed to sort out the camel tours while I continued to the bus station.
When leaving the bus station, I saw Cheri approaching on the back of a motorbike. I joined the motorbike and we settled on an overnight camel trip into a nearby village with our host Kalu. A few hours later, I boarded Ramjes with my ten year old guide Rahul behind me. Cheri boarded Krishna with Papa (I forget his real name) seated behind her. The view was great and the ride not terribly uncomfortable. Several children asked for school pens or rupees but for the most part we were left alone.
My guide Rahul spoke limited Enlish but repeatedly told me "you happy boss, me happy." When we approached tree limbs or plants, he would cautiously tell me "carepool sir, carepool, carepool, carepool." We had a playful game of debating who was the boss of whom with my insisting that he was in charge.
An added element to our trip was the fact that our two male camels were in heat. Without notice, they would explode with a loud gurgling sound (think of an exaggerated version of when your stomach tells you that you've eaten something terribly wrong) and their massive tongues would spew out from their closed mouths. It looked as though they were regurgitating their own stomachs but gave for a good laugh.
Upon arriving at Kalu's family home, we were greeted by grandmother, dog, dancing horse and many goats. After a short walk, several more family members arrived and Cheri and I each realized that we had been desperately craving family time. Watching Kalu's mother Santos prepare what turned out to be maybe the best meal of my life reminded me of Ghana. The joking nature and clear love shared among the family was a real treat and I hope to go back. An Australian business owner joined the group, explaining that she has stayed with Kalu and family for 4 years on and off when she comes for materials for her textile business. She was a clear member of the family and exacerbated the longing for Ghana. Cheri and I both loved and needed this night.
The next day, we walked the colorful, touristy main street of Pushkar before taking an overnight bus to Udaipur. The connecting bus from Pushkar to Ajmer had us picked up by a rickshaw but with no prior explanation, we felt a bit as though we were being abducted or led on a scam mission. Eventually we arrived at our correct bus and got to Udaipur this morning at 5am. I am taking a much needed rest/reorganization day while Cheri wanders the town.
More later.
Love to all
Ira
Sunday, January 31, 2010
Sunrise on the Ganges
Varanasi certainly did not disappoint. Happy that we had daylight to get our bearings, Cheri and I checked into more of a backpacker hostel on day two. We were centrally located and surrounded by other travelers. After talking to many travelers from various locations (UK, Australia, Sweden) we realized that our one month jaunt is the shortest trip we've heard of. Travelers on their second of three months also wail about how much they will miss and how much there is to see in India. With less than three weeks, I feel that I have seen a lot without too much stress.
While in Varanasi, we wandered the labyrinthine streets while dodging cows, dogs, beggars, motorcycles, cow pies, monkeys, streams of betel nut/tobacco spit and processions of chanting men carrying a dead loved one on an orange shrouded stretcher. Our new hostel was a ten minute walk (once we stopped getting lost) from the main burning ghat. Fires are burning 24 hours per day and as many as 300 bodies will be burnt every day. This particular ghat burns only Hindus and all Brahman that want to be burned will be burned with the exception of children, pregnant women, holy men, sufferers of small pox, lepers and those who died by cobra bite. It is believed that these individuals are either blessed or pure and do not need the cleansing process provided by the burning. It takes three hours for a body to burn and it is a very strange experience to stand among ten pyres as bodies lay in various degrees of transformation. We went to visit this ghat each day but never stayed more than fifteen minutes or so. In our few visits, we saw a skull literally explode (does anyone know why this would happen) as it burned. We also saw one of the fire tenders try to move a body to help the burning process. He used a large bamboo pole to move the body and threw the bamboo pole aside when he finished. Almost instantly, two of Varanasi's countless dogs sidled up to gnaw the burnt flesh from the end of the bamboo. I am sorry to focus on the gruesome aspects as the process seems much more cathartic and happy than any funeral I have ever attended. The cremation process is a happy event as it is the end of the cycle of rebirth. Understandably, photos were not permitted during this process. Even when trying to take pictures from a great distance to give a sense of the layout, I got a good tongue lashing.
On January 30, we went for a sunrise boat ride on the Ganges. Having taken a free boat ride during the previous evening sunset, we had a sense of the area and it's beauty. January 30 was a festival day. We heard that it was a Punjab festival and we also heard that it was a Sikh festival so we weren't quite sure what to expect. Either way, we quickly saw the crowd that the festival provided. The ghats flowed with undulating colors as men, women and children ventured to the Ganga (local pronunciation). Sarees, orange flowers and the deep orange of sunrise made for a truly unbelievable start to the day. This hour long ride was riveting enough to allow the fatigue from our 5am wake-up to subside temporarily. The only other signs of a festival that we saw during the day were at a seemingly heated demonstration in the center of town. Men screamed into a megaphone and were echoed by an emphatic crowd. Wary, Cheri and I took a detour and a few blocks later saw a constant stream of stern looking police officers headed right where we had come from. No news spread of any trouble but I was happy to distance myself from the pulsating energy.
We are now in Allahabad, another holy city that drew 70,000,000 people to the confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna and Saraswati rivers for Kumbh Mela. We arrived one day after a smaller gathering of holy men and lugged our bags through a sea of bearded, painted holy men in all orange. Quite a sight indeed.
We intended to continue to Jaipur in Rajasthan today but we were unable to get a ticket departing before mid-day tomorrow. We will spend about a week in Rajashtan before heading south to see Mumbai and Goa.
Still great here!
Love to all.
Ira
While in Varanasi, we wandered the labyrinthine streets while dodging cows, dogs, beggars, motorcycles, cow pies, monkeys, streams of betel nut/tobacco spit and processions of chanting men carrying a dead loved one on an orange shrouded stretcher. Our new hostel was a ten minute walk (once we stopped getting lost) from the main burning ghat. Fires are burning 24 hours per day and as many as 300 bodies will be burnt every day. This particular ghat burns only Hindus and all Brahman that want to be burned will be burned with the exception of children, pregnant women, holy men, sufferers of small pox, lepers and those who died by cobra bite. It is believed that these individuals are either blessed or pure and do not need the cleansing process provided by the burning. It takes three hours for a body to burn and it is a very strange experience to stand among ten pyres as bodies lay in various degrees of transformation. We went to visit this ghat each day but never stayed more than fifteen minutes or so. In our few visits, we saw a skull literally explode (does anyone know why this would happen) as it burned. We also saw one of the fire tenders try to move a body to help the burning process. He used a large bamboo pole to move the body and threw the bamboo pole aside when he finished. Almost instantly, two of Varanasi's countless dogs sidled up to gnaw the burnt flesh from the end of the bamboo. I am sorry to focus on the gruesome aspects as the process seems much more cathartic and happy than any funeral I have ever attended. The cremation process is a happy event as it is the end of the cycle of rebirth. Understandably, photos were not permitted during this process. Even when trying to take pictures from a great distance to give a sense of the layout, I got a good tongue lashing.
On January 30, we went for a sunrise boat ride on the Ganges. Having taken a free boat ride during the previous evening sunset, we had a sense of the area and it's beauty. January 30 was a festival day. We heard that it was a Punjab festival and we also heard that it was a Sikh festival so we weren't quite sure what to expect. Either way, we quickly saw the crowd that the festival provided. The ghats flowed with undulating colors as men, women and children ventured to the Ganga (local pronunciation). Sarees, orange flowers and the deep orange of sunrise made for a truly unbelievable start to the day. This hour long ride was riveting enough to allow the fatigue from our 5am wake-up to subside temporarily. The only other signs of a festival that we saw during the day were at a seemingly heated demonstration in the center of town. Men screamed into a megaphone and were echoed by an emphatic crowd. Wary, Cheri and I took a detour and a few blocks later saw a constant stream of stern looking police officers headed right where we had come from. No news spread of any trouble but I was happy to distance myself from the pulsating energy.
We are now in Allahabad, another holy city that drew 70,000,000 people to the confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna and Saraswati rivers for Kumbh Mela. We arrived one day after a smaller gathering of holy men and lugged our bags through a sea of bearded, painted holy men in all orange. Quite a sight indeed.
We intended to continue to Jaipur in Rajasthan today but we were unable to get a ticket departing before mid-day tomorrow. We will spend about a week in Rajashtan before heading south to see Mumbai and Goa.
Still great here!
Love to all.
Ira
Wednesday, January 27, 2010
The elusive Taj
Cheri and I got up early in order to reach the train station for our 7:10am train. We endured the swerving and halting of our auto- rickshaw on the way and arrived with plenty of time to spare. We quickly learned that our train had been fogged in and that the price had been refunded. No Taj Mahal that day. Unfortunately, that price was paid by hour hostel manager and was refunded to his online account. Unable to get an afternoon train, we spent an extra day relaxing in Delhi. We spent more of the next 24 hours asleep than we did awake so it seems to be a blessing in disguise.
When we made out train (only 30 minutes late arriving) we were excited to be only a night train from the Taj Mahal. Instead, we arrived 3 hours late, checked in to our hostel in the wee hours and got a late start in Agra. After walking to the Agra Fort and posing for countless photos with Indian children and full families (a common trend so far) we were headed to the Taj Mahal with plans to arrive around sunset. We arrived at around 5 and learned that we were 45 minutes from closing. Rather than feel rushed, we decided to wait another day.
Jan 26, 2010 was the 60th Indian Republic Day and we were headed to the Taj Mahal finally! After a trip to the Baby Taj (built before the Taj Mahal and entirely out of marble) we worked out way to the Taj Mahal at 3pm. Upon arriving at 4pm, we saw that the line was at least 100 yards long and moving slowly. With plenty to look at, Cheri and I waited (the women's line was non-existent, I was stuck in the men's line). Cheri headed in first and when I finally got inside, I saw her posing in photo after photo, getting pictures taken with every individual from a family of at least 8 people. Several hours of awe and crowds brought us through sunset and up until we were being kicked out at closing. The Taj Mahal is truly incredible. Seeing the marble change color as the sun continued to set was simply breathtaking.
That same night, we went to the Agra train station in time for our 11:30pm overnight train to Varanasi. The train arrived shortly after 2am and I promptly fell asleep in my triangular casket shaped berth. Close the the train ceiling, I had to wedge myself into the berth in such a way that by legs could bend (the berth was under 6 feet in length) and allow then to fit between the metal supports. Surprisingly, I fell asleep almost instantly and slept on and off until 1pm. Scheduled to arrive at 2pm, I felt great!! When the train emptied out and we began chatting with fellow travelers at around 4pm, we still had quite a way to go. With extra space and good conversation, the next several hours flew by and we arrived at 9pm, nearly 22 hours after we were scheduled to depart. Mice, cockroaches, food sellars and beggars frequented the train but all in all it was very enjoyable.
We're now in Varanasi and after a morning walking along the Ganges, seeing holy men, shrouded corpses and plenty of washing/bathing in the river, we are settled into our hostel, preparing for more to come from this Hindu holy land.
Love to all,
Ira
When we made out train (only 30 minutes late arriving) we were excited to be only a night train from the Taj Mahal. Instead, we arrived 3 hours late, checked in to our hostel in the wee hours and got a late start in Agra. After walking to the Agra Fort and posing for countless photos with Indian children and full families (a common trend so far) we were headed to the Taj Mahal with plans to arrive around sunset. We arrived at around 5 and learned that we were 45 minutes from closing. Rather than feel rushed, we decided to wait another day.
Jan 26, 2010 was the 60th Indian Republic Day and we were headed to the Taj Mahal finally! After a trip to the Baby Taj (built before the Taj Mahal and entirely out of marble) we worked out way to the Taj Mahal at 3pm. Upon arriving at 4pm, we saw that the line was at least 100 yards long and moving slowly. With plenty to look at, Cheri and I waited (the women's line was non-existent, I was stuck in the men's line). Cheri headed in first and when I finally got inside, I saw her posing in photo after photo, getting pictures taken with every individual from a family of at least 8 people. Several hours of awe and crowds brought us through sunset and up until we were being kicked out at closing. The Taj Mahal is truly incredible. Seeing the marble change color as the sun continued to set was simply breathtaking.
That same night, we went to the Agra train station in time for our 11:30pm overnight train to Varanasi. The train arrived shortly after 2am and I promptly fell asleep in my triangular casket shaped berth. Close the the train ceiling, I had to wedge myself into the berth in such a way that by legs could bend (the berth was under 6 feet in length) and allow then to fit between the metal supports. Surprisingly, I fell asleep almost instantly and slept on and off until 1pm. Scheduled to arrive at 2pm, I felt great!! When the train emptied out and we began chatting with fellow travelers at around 4pm, we still had quite a way to go. With extra space and good conversation, the next several hours flew by and we arrived at 9pm, nearly 22 hours after we were scheduled to depart. Mice, cockroaches, food sellars and beggars frequented the train but all in all it was very enjoyable.
We're now in Varanasi and after a morning walking along the Ganges, seeing holy men, shrouded corpses and plenty of washing/bathing in the river, we are settled into our hostel, preparing for more to come from this Hindu holy land.
Love to all,
Ira
Wednesday, January 20, 2010
In Delhi
Amsterdam was a nice end to my European trip. With Cheri's arrival, I was able to break my habit of avoiding museums that cost any money. When I had two days on my own, I took a free walking tour and got a good sense of the city. When Cheri arrived, we walked all around Amsterdam, visiting the Anne Frank house, the Van Gogh Museum, the Heineken Experience and the Sex Museum. The Heineken Experience was the most expensive but included three free Heinekens. With the forgetfulness of the bartender and the generosity of fellow tour members, Cheri and I managed 5 ice cold Heinis and definitely got our moneys worth.
We wandered the red light district, trying to decide if we felt better for the women parading in front of their windows or those who were occupied behind a closed curtain. The free tour shared information that a window can cost as much as 150 euros for an 8 hour shift while women commonly charge a minimum of 50 euros for fifteen minutes. It seems like a very lucrative though unenjoyable line of work. The creepy, lurking men really emphasized the bad side of the gig.
Yesterday, Cheri and I flew separately to London. Though our round the world travels share locations and travel dates, we never fly on the same airplane. Cheri arrived in London at around 7pm and thanks to my previous visit, I was able to recommend a comfortable, central waiting point. Unfortunately, my flight was delayed and she had to wait for over three hours. A benefit to cultural readjustment is that nearly everything is new and exciting. Seeing crowds, eating basic foods and chatting with strangers can make the hours fly by. When I arrived, Cheri was perfectly comfortable and we went to visit Sally and Suzie in their new digs. SF family friends for many years, Sally and Suzie were great hostesses, giving a place to sleep and helping give Cheri a proper London tour while I flew to India.
I left at 11:50am. I arrived at 1:30am local time and after customs and baggage claim, realized that both ATM machines were down. I had only 8 pounds left, too little to take to the ForEx. After some negotiations, I managed to exchange 8 pounds and one euro for two samosas and 525 rupees. I paid a bit extra but was very happy to be able to get underway.
I got a pre-paid taxi and was on my way at 3:45am. Due to heavy fog, visibility was similar to that on Skyline Blvd. at night. I could see the hazards of other vehicles 50 or so feet ahead but could see nothing else. Shortly after 5am, the taxi driver was still unable to find my hostel. I had detailed, written directions and a phone number but we weren't able to manage. At this point, I used my failsafe method of visiting a ritzy hotel. I have had success with this approach in Vienna and in Budapest so thought I would test my luck. My pre-paid taxi tried to charge a hefty additional fee for driving me around for so long. We came to an agreement that 180 rupees (4 dollars) and 5 Ghana Cedis would cover the 700 rupees he hoped to get. I know that he was trying to overcharge me a bit but appreciated the comfort of the taxi. I insisted that he wouldn't be able to exchange the Ghanaian money but he insisted that it was a fair exchange.
I was helped into the nice hotel by doormen and was greeted by the concierge. Unfortunately, internet access would cost 400 rupees per hour (almost nine dollars). The friendly concierge knew that I was close to my hostel and apparently could tell that I wasn't a nine dollars per-hour kind of spender so he helped me get proper directions, called a taxi and gave the taxi driver the hostel phone number.
I arrived at the Blue Sapphire Hostel at 6am and slept until 2pm. Cheri arrived at 3 and we have been sorting out various odds and ends, trying to think of the best way to deal with the next month in India. There is a very distinct smell (similar source but different ingredients from the Ghana smell) and noise that I already appreciate.
Off for some good food and more rest.
Love to all!!
We wandered the red light district, trying to decide if we felt better for the women parading in front of their windows or those who were occupied behind a closed curtain. The free tour shared information that a window can cost as much as 150 euros for an 8 hour shift while women commonly charge a minimum of 50 euros for fifteen minutes. It seems like a very lucrative though unenjoyable line of work. The creepy, lurking men really emphasized the bad side of the gig.
Yesterday, Cheri and I flew separately to London. Though our round the world travels share locations and travel dates, we never fly on the same airplane. Cheri arrived in London at around 7pm and thanks to my previous visit, I was able to recommend a comfortable, central waiting point. Unfortunately, my flight was delayed and she had to wait for over three hours. A benefit to cultural readjustment is that nearly everything is new and exciting. Seeing crowds, eating basic foods and chatting with strangers can make the hours fly by. When I arrived, Cheri was perfectly comfortable and we went to visit Sally and Suzie in their new digs. SF family friends for many years, Sally and Suzie were great hostesses, giving a place to sleep and helping give Cheri a proper London tour while I flew to India.
I left at 11:50am. I arrived at 1:30am local time and after customs and baggage claim, realized that both ATM machines were down. I had only 8 pounds left, too little to take to the ForEx. After some negotiations, I managed to exchange 8 pounds and one euro for two samosas and 525 rupees. I paid a bit extra but was very happy to be able to get underway.
I got a pre-paid taxi and was on my way at 3:45am. Due to heavy fog, visibility was similar to that on Skyline Blvd. at night. I could see the hazards of other vehicles 50 or so feet ahead but could see nothing else. Shortly after 5am, the taxi driver was still unable to find my hostel. I had detailed, written directions and a phone number but we weren't able to manage. At this point, I used my failsafe method of visiting a ritzy hotel. I have had success with this approach in Vienna and in Budapest so thought I would test my luck. My pre-paid taxi tried to charge a hefty additional fee for driving me around for so long. We came to an agreement that 180 rupees (4 dollars) and 5 Ghana Cedis would cover the 700 rupees he hoped to get. I know that he was trying to overcharge me a bit but appreciated the comfort of the taxi. I insisted that he wouldn't be able to exchange the Ghanaian money but he insisted that it was a fair exchange.
I was helped into the nice hotel by doormen and was greeted by the concierge. Unfortunately, internet access would cost 400 rupees per hour (almost nine dollars). The friendly concierge knew that I was close to my hostel and apparently could tell that I wasn't a nine dollars per-hour kind of spender so he helped me get proper directions, called a taxi and gave the taxi driver the hostel phone number.
I arrived at the Blue Sapphire Hostel at 6am and slept until 2pm. Cheri arrived at 3 and we have been sorting out various odds and ends, trying to think of the best way to deal with the next month in India. There is a very distinct smell (similar source but different ingredients from the Ghana smell) and noise that I already appreciate.
Off for some good food and more rest.
Love to all!!
Tuesday, January 12, 2010
A new favorite
Though Prague was gorgeous and I had a great time, I fell in love with Budapest instantly.
After a very long, very late night dancing throughout Prague, I made it to the bus station with an hour and a half to spare only to learn that one seat remained. By the time my information was processed, of course the seat was taken and I had to get back on Metro and head to the train station where I paid three times the price. In the end, I enjoyed the space and ability to walk around. However, the directions I wrote down were from the bus station so when my train arrived an hour late, I was in Budapest at 11:30pm with no idea where to go.
I took the first taxi of my travels only to learn that Goat Hostel was not well known. As the driver took me across the Danube, I got a great view of the Citadel, Parliament and other gorgeous buildings that I would visit the following day. I remembered the Metro stop from my directions and was dropped off with the plan of winging the rest. I walked back and forth along what seemed to be the correct street. Lugging my bags, I eventually wandered into a 4 star hotel and was given permission to use the free internet. Even with directions, I couldn't find the hostel. I was directed right back to where I had been walking and when I asked at a bar, I was told that I was one door away. There was absolutely no signage other than a bolded Goat Hostel written among a dozen residences on the address label. After it all, the hostel is very nice.
The next morning, I walked up Gellert hill, read about the rich history of Budapest and kept on walking. I visited the Parliament building, and kept going until my legs, exhausted from dancing, 6 hours on the train, wandering with my luggage and walking around Budapest were very ready for the thermal baths. I spent nearly two hours going from sauna to sauna, pool to pool before heading back for a great sleep.
I was greeted by two very cool Australian girls. After chatting for a bit, we went out for what turned out to be incredibly good Hungarian food. Today, the three of us ventured out with the goal of reaching Statue Park, a park full of Communist statues. We got to appropriate bus station, waited a while and were finally told that the transport workers were on strike and that we wouldn't be able to make it. Instead, we visited a gorgeous indoor market, ate more great Hungarian food, met more fun travelers, went out for more great Hungarian food and came back here.
We've just started a movie. Tomorrow, I fly to Amsterdam tomorrow and will meet Cheri two days later.
Love to all'
Friday, January 8, 2010
Snow makes me shutter happy
A few hours after arriving in Vienna, I joined a group of three Chileans in conversation and went from there. We had a few beers and instead of sleeping early like the old, frugal traveler I've been, I went out on the town with a group of 21 and 22 year olds. We trekked over a mile through dumping snow to a bar where I instantly hit it off with a group of ex-pats. I danced up a storm, chatted a great deal and trekked back through the snow at about 4am. People kept buying my beers so I managed to stay frugal while giving up my early bedtime.
A late wakeup allowed me an energized day of wandering picturesque Vienna. I took an incredible amount of pictures. My inexperience with snow makes everything so much more exciting. Incredible architecture under a layer of snow and clear sky could not be beat.
A more mellow night, a 5 hour train trip, 2 hours lost wandering ( I will print directions next time) in Prague and I arrived at my current hostel. Today allowed for another day of beautiful architecture and a layer of snow. The snow continued to dump and it was about 20 degrees out. More pictures (uploads to come, I am borrowing a laptop) in Prague than in Vienna I believe. It's gorgeous here and I have two more days to explore. I don't think I will make it to the bone church, I will see how I'm feeling. Really loving this trip and all of the fellow travelers.
Love to all!
Ira
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
When in doubt, have a beer
Since arriving in Bratislava, I have been worried that I wouldn't give Slovakia it's proper due. It's cold and for the most part quite unattractive. No tourist website had much to recommend. Nevertheless, I decided to give it the good old wander to see what I could find.
After a nice, inexpensive lunch, I decided to head back to the hostel on another road. I saw a saw a nice local pub with no prices starting in a number higher than 1. I stopped for a beer, had a second (a local beer I can't remember the name of) and was joined by a friendly mustachioed Slovak and his son. We chatted a bit, I explained that I was in Slovakia for no reason in particular and they offered to drive me to the castle in order to get a good look at Bratislavan history.
There were a few beautiful sights and after wandering, getting lost and finally getting the bus back to the neighborhood of my hostel, I realized that I had never strayed more than a mile from my starting point. Not a huge city but at least I gave it a proper look. Now off to Vienna!
Love to all.
After a nice, inexpensive lunch, I decided to head back to the hostel on another road. I saw a saw a nice local pub with no prices starting in a number higher than 1. I stopped for a beer, had a second (a local beer I can't remember the name of) and was joined by a friendly mustachioed Slovak and his son. We chatted a bit, I explained that I was in Slovakia for no reason in particular and they offered to drive me to the castle in order to get a good look at Bratislavan history.
There were a few beautiful sights and after wandering, getting lost and finally getting the bus back to the neighborhood of my hostel, I realized that I had never strayed more than a mile from my starting point. Not a huge city but at least I gave it a proper look. Now off to Vienna!
Love to all.
Monday, January 4, 2010
Solo again
As of 4:30am on Jan 2 I was on my own again. I was on my own in a nice hotel for the first 8 hours or so which I must say was very nice. I slept in, made my fifth trip to the gym in our 3 day stay and I took another hot shower (they just don't get old!)
I found Peace and Love Hostel and checked in around 2pm. Though I pretty much figured out the metro system, I somehow misread a street sign and walked WAY out of my way. When I reached my room after climbing 6 flights of stairs I was pretty spent. I wandered a bit, worked on applications but called it a night pretty early.
Luckily, the first Sunday of every month offers free admission to all of the museums in Paris. I spent the day (as many hours in lines as in museums) at the Louvre (meh) and the Musee D'Orsee (awesome!!). Walking along a hallway of Renoir, Monet, Manet, Van Gogh, Cesanne and others all in a row was unbelievable!! I am not a museum guy but I was blown away. I am not a fan of people taking photos of paintings. I am not sure why it bugs me so much but I really can't stand it.
This morning, I had to pick up my passport at the Indian visa office. Officially pick-up hours aren't until 2pm but I was lucky enough to skip the line and be in and out before 9am. I got back to the hostel and tried to buy my morning coffee. In exchange for getting ice from about 100 feet away, I was given free coffee and juice. When I was getting the juice a guy offered me a buttered baguette. I know I'm easily impressed but the day started WAY better than I had expected.
Things got a little less easy as the day went on. Nothing too bad though. I arrived at the bus station (my airport was over an hour outside Paris) well in advance and was behind an irate Frenchman. I don't understand much french but it sounded as though he was yelling something like "I'm an impatient ass and I'm going to make a scene even though there's nothing that can be done." The friendly woman behind the counter kindly replied something like. "I'm sorry but there is nothing that can be done." and changed windows to give me a chance. The impatient fellow pushed me out of the way and forced me to give him a big shove and my pretend I can fight face. I got my ticket, the angry man got sorted out and we were on our merry way.
Unfortunately, somebody must have spilled my plot to the authorities because my duct tape and jump rope were confiscated so I couldn't go through with my tape-n-skip terror plot. I bought my 5 euro ticket weeks in advance so I could duct tape people in place and whip them with my jump rope.
I made it to Bratislava and did my best to figure out where to go based on signs. I teamed up with two young french women and with the help of a Slovak woman and an Italian woman, we found the hostel in which I am typing.
I may head to Vienna for the day tomorrow and to Prague at night. Bratislava doesn't really call to me. We shall see.
Love to all
I found Peace and Love Hostel and checked in around 2pm. Though I pretty much figured out the metro system, I somehow misread a street sign and walked WAY out of my way. When I reached my room after climbing 6 flights of stairs I was pretty spent. I wandered a bit, worked on applications but called it a night pretty early.
Luckily, the first Sunday of every month offers free admission to all of the museums in Paris. I spent the day (as many hours in lines as in museums) at the Louvre (meh) and the Musee D'Orsee (awesome!!). Walking along a hallway of Renoir, Monet, Manet, Van Gogh, Cesanne and others all in a row was unbelievable!! I am not a museum guy but I was blown away. I am not a fan of people taking photos of paintings. I am not sure why it bugs me so much but I really can't stand it.
This morning, I had to pick up my passport at the Indian visa office. Officially pick-up hours aren't until 2pm but I was lucky enough to skip the line and be in and out before 9am. I got back to the hostel and tried to buy my morning coffee. In exchange for getting ice from about 100 feet away, I was given free coffee and juice. When I was getting the juice a guy offered me a buttered baguette. I know I'm easily impressed but the day started WAY better than I had expected.
Things got a little less easy as the day went on. Nothing too bad though. I arrived at the bus station (my airport was over an hour outside Paris) well in advance and was behind an irate Frenchman. I don't understand much french but it sounded as though he was yelling something like "I'm an impatient ass and I'm going to make a scene even though there's nothing that can be done." The friendly woman behind the counter kindly replied something like. "I'm sorry but there is nothing that can be done." and changed windows to give me a chance. The impatient fellow pushed me out of the way and forced me to give him a big shove and my pretend I can fight face. I got my ticket, the angry man got sorted out and we were on our merry way.
Unfortunately, somebody must have spilled my plot to the authorities because my duct tape and jump rope were confiscated so I couldn't go through with my tape-n-skip terror plot. I bought my 5 euro ticket weeks in advance so I could duct tape people in place and whip them with my jump rope.
I made it to Bratislava and did my best to figure out where to go based on signs. I teamed up with two young french women and with the help of a Slovak woman and an Italian woman, we found the hostel in which I am typing.
I may head to Vienna for the day tomorrow and to Prague at night. Bratislava doesn't really call to me. We shall see.
Love to all
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