The elusive Taj

Cheri and I got up early in order to reach the train station for our 7:10am train. We endured the swerving and halting of our auto- rickshaw on the way and arrived with plenty of time to spare. We quickly learned that our train had been fogged in and that the price had been refunded. No Taj Mahal that day. Unfortunately, that price was paid by hour hostel manager and was refunded to his online account. Unable to get an afternoon train, we spent an extra day relaxing in Delhi. We spent more of the next 24 hours asleep than we did awake so it seems to be a blessing in disguise.

When we made out train (only 30 minutes late arriving) we were excited to be only a night train from the Taj Mahal. Instead, we arrived 3 hours late, checked in to our hostel in the wee hours and got a late start in Agra. After walking to the Agra Fort and posing for countless photos with Indian children and full families (a common trend so far) we were headed to the Taj Mahal with plans to arrive around sunset. We arrived at around 5 and learned that we were 45 minutes from closing. Rather than feel rushed, we decided to wait another day.

Jan 26, 2010 was the 60th Indian Republic Day and we were headed to the Taj Mahal finally! After a trip to the Baby Taj (built before the Taj Mahal and entirely out of marble) we worked out way to the Taj Mahal at 3pm. Upon arriving at 4pm, we saw that the line was at least 100 yards long and moving slowly. With plenty to look at, Cheri and I waited (the women's line was non-existent, I was stuck in the men's line). Cheri headed in first and when I finally got inside, I saw her posing in photo after photo, getting pictures taken with every individual from a family of at least 8 people. Several hours of awe and crowds brought us through sunset and up until we were being kicked out at closing. The Taj Mahal is truly incredible. Seeing the marble change color as the sun continued to set was simply breathtaking.

That same night, we went to the Agra train station in time for our 11:30pm overnight train to Varanasi. The train arrived shortly after 2am and I promptly fell asleep in my triangular casket shaped berth. Close the the train ceiling, I had to wedge myself into the berth in such a way that by legs could bend (the berth was under 6 feet in length) and allow then to fit between the metal supports. Surprisingly, I fell asleep almost instantly and slept on and off until 1pm. Scheduled to arrive at 2pm, I felt great!! When the train emptied out and we began chatting with fellow travelers at around 4pm, we still had quite a way to go. With extra space and good conversation, the next several hours flew by and we arrived at 9pm, nearly 22 hours after we were scheduled to depart. Mice, cockroaches, food sellars and beggars frequented the train but all in all it was very enjoyable.

We're now in Varanasi and after a morning walking along the Ganges, seeing holy men, shrouded corpses and plenty of washing/bathing in the river, we are settled into our hostel, preparing for more to come from this Hindu holy land.

Love to all,
Ira