NYE in Paris

I am hoping to make it a second consecutive NYE without a fainting episode similar to my first NYE in Ghana. You know what I'm talking about.

My time in France has been absolutely incredible. It may not prepare me for the squalor of the rest of my trip as I have been filling up on champagne, foie gras and fine cheeses (thank you Jonathan and Annie). An incredible Christmas morning with stockings, fireplace and all was followed up with a seven course meal (photos are needed to give an idea). Too much wine at a game night on boxing day left me useless but content on the 27th.

My dad and I have since been to La Rochelle, Bordeaux and are now back up north in Paris. We have been a bit lost in each place but keep each other in good moods. We balance each other well. I like getting lost and then figuring it out. He does not like getting lost. I don't like spending money and will walk miles to avoid it. He doesn't mind spending money (works for both of us). We both like to eat and explore and can laugh at ourselves and at one another.

Tonight we have some NYE plans to figure out. The Eiffel tower will put on some sort of first ever light show that we hope to check out. Dad will leave early on the 2nd and I will kill a few days in Paris , hopefully picking up my passport from the VERY expensive Indian Visa office.

I am having a great time but am currently stealing wifi from a restaurant (and my food just arrived).

Love to all and happy new year!!

Merry Christmas from France!!!

All is great here. Great food and great company in a beautiful home in Saxan France.

Love to all and happy holidays!!

Through the Chunnel

My time in London was brief, rainy and cold. I stayed with a friend from San Francisco for my first night in town but due to prior engagements and schedules had to make it to a hostel for night two.

Though I managed some of my typical wandering, the cost of the tube and food was enough to keep me indoors much of the time. I have a strict mental budget and after my phone crapped out (a new phone with 10 pounds of credit was only 14 pounds!!) and I ate a basic meal, I was quickly reaching my limit.

The pace, price and left-side drivers gave me my most intense culture shock to date. I spent much of the day playing FIFA 2010 on Playstation 3. A nice relaxing day before heading to my hostel on the tube. A bite to eat, a televised football match and some chats with travelers brought me to a 10:30pm bedtime with snow flurries outside. At 2:30am I woke for the last time (many other travelers were in and out of the room through the night) and donned my excess baggage for my trip to Luton airport. When buying my ticket for the tube earlier in the day, I was told that I could use it all day, up through 3am. With my trip planned, I walked past many boisterous, stumblingly drunk groups on my way to the closed station. Panicked, I took a taxi through the snow to a bus station, hoping to make it in time for my 6am flight.

I arrived at the station and was told that no buses went from there to Luton. I was assured that no buses were going to Luton and that no flights were leaving Luton. I was sitting on the bus terminal floor at 3am with no idea how I would get to Paris. Some calls and texts home calmed me and as I ran out of phone credit, I found that I could get a 10 hour bus to Paris at 9am.

Rather than sit idle, I walked to the ATM and the Victoria Station in order to check my options. Lugging my bags, I walked through the early morning snow (still pretty great for this beach dwelling Californian) and sat at the station for a while before learning my best option.

A short bus ride later, I bought an overpriced but happily purchased Eurostar ticket to Paris. Guided by the bus schedule, little sleep and my Ghana travels, I thought that the 10:17 travel time meant that my 6:55am train would arrive just after 5pm. I made the appropriate calls and was pleased to arrive in Paris just after 10:30am.

I found the hotel, dropped my luggage and lounged until my Dad arrived a few hours later. BBC news was the only English language channel and went on and on about the terrible weather hitting the UK and France.

Today, after a long walk through Paris with my Dad, he and I saw on BBC that four Eurostar trains left London and were trapped in the chunnel for up to 15 hours. Though I felt very unlucky and put out at times, I kept high spirits, good humor and in the end lucked out!

Love to all

Fellow travelers

Though it isn't the peak season for tourism, I have met a good number of fellow travelers. Perhaps because it isn't the peak season, I have met some very dedicated and very experienced travelers.

In Cappadocia I met a trio (Swiss male 60s, Swiss male 28, Swedish female 30s) as the took a respite from their Switzerland to Nepal bicycle trip. The 28 year old spend 2 months cycling through Pakistan last year and told me that cycling is just a better way to travel and that he didn't take more than one long ride a week when at home.

I chatted with a Kiwi jiu-jitsu/mui thai fighting 32 year old chef who works long enough to fund his next trip.

Two Indian men came through individually and were constantly on the go. They were either touring, eating, sleeping or preparing the next stage of their travel.

I briefly met a sketchy Moroccan man. He hung around the hostel all day. When two travelers noticed money missing, new arrivals from Istanbul mentioned a similar situation at their hostel and one tenant in common. The man promptly left.

I went on a few nice hikes with a Polish-American statistician who grew up all over. Sometimes thinking in odds and percentages doesn't translate well to hiking. After losing a path, we saw a familiar landmark across a steep valley and kept deciding that we could probably make it down one way or most likely get down another way. We definitely ran into a lot of dead ends, one of which was a 20 foot drop that we noticed after sliding down steep declines on our butts. We tried and failed to get out by several routes and as the sun was setting, the temperature was dropping and our fears were quıckly mounting, we managed to shimmy up with backs literally pressed against one wall and feet straight out ahead. Nice now, not then.

On a paid tour of an ancient underground city (7,000 years old?) and various valleys, I latched on to a group of bonded solo travelers. A history academiad re-thinking his goals (but offering great info. on the surrounds), an ecologist between jobs in Switzerland and New Mexico/Argentina, a USC film school grad recently off his first feature as a cinematographer, and finally a lone Swede among Americans a year out of high school, headed south through Syria, Jordan, Iran and maybe a few other places it's easier to go without stars and stripes on your passport.

After the paid tour, the history buff went back to a Bulgarian fellowship, the Swede continued south and I joined the other two for a morning trip to Konya.

Fighting a fever and soar throat, I endured the cold as the three of us wandered Konya, visited great museums and enjoyed a non-touristy destination. We intended to leave for Antalya the same day we arrived but just before leaving for the 5pm bus, we learned that it was the second day of the 736th annual Mevlana Festival. We wandered a bit more before managing to get tickets and hole up in a warm place for a few hours before the 8pm show. Almost as entertaining as the event was the crowd. Full rows of old mustachioed Turkish men would sit in front of full rows of old Turkish women with colorful scarves, colorful (though different from the scarves) sweaters and yet more (still different) colorful trousers.

The Whirling Dervishes that we saw were absolutely mesmerizing and much more somber than I expected. The hats they wear represent the tombstone and their clothing the shroud.

Gettıng here

I am now ın Cappadocıa and realıze that much of the journey has been based on feel. Istanbul was one of the cheapest locatıons from Accra and I have always heard great thıngs so I bought the tıcket.

The day I pıcked up my tıcket ın Accra I mentıoned ıt to a frıend ın the Peace Corps computer room. A dıfferent volunteer overheard the conversatıon and told me about hıs 3 months ın Turkey and saıd that Cappadocıa ıs an absolute must see.

After a few days ın Istanbul, I felt that I had seen the sıghts and had enough of the pushy rug and leather merchants (though I had nıce chats over tea wıth a few) so I bought an overnıght tıcket to Cappadocıa.

I left last nıght at 7pm on a shuttle. I got to the bus and was blown away. West Afrıcan travel really has set me up perfectly for thıs round the world journey. The temperature was perfect, despıte the outsıde temperature of -2c at certaın poınts. My seat reclıned and the seat ın front of me had a cup holder and a footrest for my use. The seat next to me was empty for the entıre trıp!! I have traveled 16 hours ın Ghana luxury buses only to cover a bıt less than half of the dıstance we covered last nıght ın 12 hours. Other passengers complaıned about havıng Turkısh news playıng on a televısıon screen. No problem.

When I got off of the bus thıs mornıng I was ın a faıry tale. Cappadocıa ıs an area wıth ıncredıble hıstory. Tools and ormaments from the neolıthıc era have been found. The Hattı, Hıttıtes, Persıans, Arıanthes, Romans, Chrıstıans, Seljuks and Ottomans have all settled here at one poınt or another. The regıon was covered after a volcanıc eruptıon 3-9 mıllıon years ago and due to erosıon and development, the landscape has come to consıst of hundreds of natural pıllar shaped rock formatıons.

I am now stayıng ın a hostel that has been burrowed ınto rock. My walls and ceılıng are stone. I went on a 3 hour hıke wıth a fellow yankee (an aussıe and a canadıan joıned for part) to one of the closest spectacles. I am not sure how long I wıll stay but ıt has been great so far. See for yourselves.







Love to all

So many tourısts

I know that I am one of the 20 mıllıon plus tourısts that vısıt Istanbul annually but thıs ıs ınsane. I guess 6´3 blonde guys stıck out as much ın Turkey as they do ın Ghana.

I got here last nıght and thanks to a generous gıft from my mom I am stayıng wıthın a few mınutes of the Blue Mosque the Hagıa Sophıa and the Hıppodrome. If you cant tell I am havıng a hard tıme fındıng most punctuatıon on thıs Turkısh keyboard.

After arrıvıng at about 2pm I got my tourıst Vısa got asked about transport and managed to lug my bags across town on local transport for only 3 Turkısh Lıra (I thınk that equals about 2 dollars). Not much compared to the 30 euro aırport shuttle that was offered.

I wandered for two hours last nıght and another three hours thıs mornıng. I know there ıs a lot to see but wıth the entıre populatıon beıng made up of tourısts and hawkers I am gettıng worn out quıckly.

The plan from here ıs to take an overnıght bus to Cappadocıa where I hope to spend a few days. From Cappadocıa I hope to go to Antalya on the southern coast. Tryıng to balance my ultra frugalıty and my desıre to experıence Turkey has been dıffıcult. I have had very nıce food and grea tea but wıll save the Turkısh baths untıl I leave tourıst central.

Exhausted but greatç

Love to all
Ira

Turkey yesterday, Turkey tomorrow

The trip north and to the beach was a success. I got to see great drumming and dancing in Kpendua to round out the village experience. Cheri and I went surfing at Busua beach in the south. At this rate, maybe I won't be so bad after six continents?

Yesterday was my second consecutive Thanksgiving Day spent at the ambassador's residence. Plenty of food and Sangria. Very nice!!! After the meal, I went to the home of our Country Director with two fellow volunteers where we watched football (the american type) and relaxed.

Today I got my luggage in order and tomorrow I fly to Turkey. It's hard to believe but the next journey is starting very shortly!!

I still haven't heard anything from Columbia being more practical than pessimistic, I'll be getting my other applications in order in Turkey.

Happy here.

Love to all
Ira

Getting my R

In a few hours I will officially be an RPCV (Returned Peace Corps Volunteer). I've had my work cut out for me the past few days. I left Bormase at 5am Monday morning. Sunday was full of fun, playing spa (a local card game) and football. Much of the community came out to the school site where I received a smock from the village bicycle project participants. It was very hard to realize how many things I would be doing for the last time.

I had my last bucket bath by starlight. I went to sit at the borehole though I didn't need to fetch water. I went to visit many friends for the last time. Too many lasts to count.

My mind is awash with memories and I'm sure I haven't even begun to miss my village like I will. I've been busy getting administrative things done in Accra. I'm closing out proposals for the bead workshop (only flooring needs to be completed) and the school (blackboards and some plastering still needed) and submitted my Description of Service and site history reports. I've been poked and prodded and given a variety of samples. I had a chest x-ray to prove that my inactive TB didn't become active TB. So much so quickly.

I'm hoping to get out of Accra today. Cheri and I will go to Kumasi this evening, to Tamale the following day and to her village Kpendua on Friday. We plan to venture toward the beach on Monday. More whirlwind touring. I want to get a day of surfing in before I leave Africa. I have a goal to become the worlds worst surfer to have surfed on six continents. I have two continents down and the upcoming trip will take care of the rest. I'm flying to Turkey in ten days and hope to get my mind out of my village before then. We'll see how that goes.

Though my Peace Corps journey is coming to an end, I plan to keep blogging. I'll update the blog through my third straight Christmas away from home and the many adventures that I can't yet imagine.

Thank you all for following this blog. I've enjoyed writing more than I expected I would.

Love to all, more to come.

Ira

Going away dinner

I'm in Kof buying the last cement for the school and bead projects.

Yesterday, Dorothy, Raphael, Stephen, Paul, Johnny, Michael and I enjoyed a day in celebration of my time in Bormase. We had minerals and biscuits for lunch and slaughtered a rabbit for dinner.

Emmanuel joined in time for fufu with delicious rabbit meat. Stephen and Raphael will leave today and I likely won't see them again before I leave. I hope to see them again ever.

The day included carrying handfuls of 8 week old chickens from a tro to the chicken coop. I was attacked by another mama hen as I tried to save it's chick (a few days old) while the chick hung upside down by it's clawnail.

I did wash by hand for one of the last times. I've been taking photos like a maniac, trying to get what seems mundane but will be so strange soon. A sheep munching away at a plantain leaf, a toothless old woman walking barefoot to the store. I sure will miss this place.

Love to all.
Ira

Peace Corps emotional swings

I've been visiting with some of my best Peace Corps friends during their last days in country.

As the one in the group who would be going back for more work at site, I expressed the feeling that always accompanies time away from site.

I told my friends that when I leave, I feel guilty for being away and become eager to go back. When it's time to go back, I dread it a bit, savoring the running water, company and electricity. When I finally get on the road, I'm excited to get back to my friends in the village. When I'm in Bormase, I love it and wonder why I dreaded my return. When the time comes for me to leave site for any reason, I'm eager to leave.

I thought that this process would stop after a few months but it's lasted the full time. When I expressed it aloud, it was received with emphatic nods and wholehearted agreement. It's hard to understand the emotional swings but they come with the territory.

Seeing my friends leave is sad. I don't know when I'll see them again and most of them have no idea what they'll do when they get home. We've all spent time talking about how long a Peace Corps service is. We counted down months and now it's time to go. Each experience is fully unique and unexplainable. Here's to two years and a lifetime of failing to explain what it was like.

Love to all.
Ira

Same country, different world

A few days ago, I attended a Columbia Admissions info session in Accra. For just over 25 dollars, I was able to transform myself back in the business casual guy I was before Peace Corps. New shoes, trousers, belt, tie and shirt allowed me to ensure that at least one aspect of my presence wouldn't stand out too much.

Assistant Dean and Executive Director of Admissions, Linda Meehan hosted the event, giving a detailed run down of the program and opening the floor to questions. I sat among about fifty other guests, ranging from recent university graduates to World Bank employees to company owning Columbia alums. The session reaffirmed my belief that Columbia is the school for me. Ms. Meehan was funny and very accommodating, giving valuable information to future applicants as well as those of us mid-application process.

I was able to ask a few questions but when the formal aspect of the event ended, I planned to ask a few more questions of Ms. Meehan but was cut off by other attendees and questions about Peace Corps and what brought me to the event.

After two years in the bush, it was eye opening to meet accountants and financial advisers educated in the UK and the US. Though I didn't quite fit the target demographic, I felt that I got a lot out of the event. Seeing the dedication that Columbia has to creating a diverse, balanced class was very important to me. Though the application is out of my hands, it was nice to get a better feel of what the program offers and what it can provide.

On another note, I recently had to bite the bullet and buy myself a new camera. I am now on my third camera of Peace Corps. It took some serious rationalizing on my part for me to allow myself to pay inflated Accra prices. In the end, I decided that the photos I'll take during my last 3 weeks in country and during the first leg of my round the world trip.

I've added more photos. Unrelated to the entry but still nice.






Love to all,
Ira

Guinea Pigs

I thought that it would be nice to COS a few weeks after most of my friends. By allowing them to leave first, I thought I would have a chance to learn from their mistakes and confusion when leaving their respective villages. Instead, I get to watch my friends leave and freak out and figure out the tumult of emotions that await me.

Last week, I went to visit Cheri in Kpendua and Gray in his village in the Upper West. Cheri and I wanted to see the Upper West and were lucky enough to be there on the day of his going away celebration. Gray recently had latrines built at the JHS and Primary Schools in his village and a big celebration was held in his honor. The emotions involved were unbelievable and I had never been to the village before.

When I got back to Bormase, three new classrooms were constructed and had shiny zinc roofs over them. Every bit of construction that was planned had been completed and the excitement was palpable.

Yesterday, the Catholic priest pulled me from my reading time to discuss some important matters. He told me to be careful with my project because contractors, masons and carpenters often pad numbers in order to chop money and materials. He has been in the area for 7 years and knows how things work.

I didn't appreciate this advice at all!! Though this priest has been perfectly friendly and helpful throughout my time here, he hasn't lived and worked among the friends that are now helping with the construction. I know that Ghana is known for corruption and recently had to deal with my drunk chief asking for handouts but why come to me now?

I'm a bit sensitive about this I know but having him drive up on his motorbike (the other priest had the truck) on his way back to his nice house only to tell me about how villagers can be really rubbed me the wrong way.

As far as I can tell, the bead center and school are coming along as planned. No materials have gone missing and we are below budget so far.

My camera spoiled somehow during my last travels so I'll have to figure out a way to get final photos. Below are pictures just for pictures' sake.







-Through the windshield, looking at the wood we just picked up.
-The courtyard in front of my house with my neighbor Patience strolling around (taken through the doggie door)
-Me with Sweetie
-Harvesting Moringa (practicing the timer on my camera)
Love to all

Ira

Timing is everything

A fellow Ghana PCV left about 5 months ago to pursue a graduate school scholarship. About a week ago, he sent an e-mail to a number of us, updating us on what he's been up to. He lamented about the economy, the mundane and the reaction he got from friends. I don't know if it was intentional but he sent this e-mail as many other volunteers are preparing to leave for home.

Two volunteers from my group have officially closed their services (COSed). They had their respective home issues and received permission to go home more than 30 days ahead of our official NOv. 26 COS date. Almost nobody has an idea of what they plan/hope to do when they get home. We have different degrees of COS trip plans. A large group will meet in Barcelona shortly after Thanksgiving and will take a low cost, off season cruise to Galveston, Texas. As of now, I have a one way ticket to Istanbul November 28 and a plan to figure out what comes next. I'll meet my Dad in France mid to late December and will meet Cheri for a flight from London to Delhi mid January. I hope to travel until May. HOPEFULLY I will hear good news about grad school before this time but we shall see.

Projects are going well. I'm still trying to balance work and planning my re-adjustment yet again.

Love to all!!

Ira

Submitted

Two days ago, I submitted my early decision application for Fall 2010 at Columbia Business School. It's been quite a process and it feels SO good to have it sumbitted. I got some editing done when not running the VAC meeting in Accra. The meeting went well but I wasn't as close to finished as I hoped I would be.

I went to Kumasi to get more internet/electricity time but the power was out for the bulk of the time I was there. I was able to edit in spurts only to wait as many as 10 hours for the power to come back. The day before the application was due, I uploaded my final essays (thanks to Rob, Justin, Gray, Will, Nick, Tycho, Cheri and Martha for their help) but couldn't upload my transcript. Though my transcript is far from the highlight of my application, it's still required. I sent a tech support request and got a reply saying that it would be processed within 4 business hours. To kill those 4 hours, I jumped on a tro to Koforidua, arrived 4 hours later and arrived at almost the exact same time as the tech support reply.

I got my application submitted a day before the deadline and recently got an update telling me that my application has been printed and is being prepared for review.

The next step will be to attend an information session in Accra on October 28. Accra is one of only 3 African cities to host a Columbia info session so I feel very lucky in that regard. The director of admissions will be in attendance so I can help her put a face to my name.

As far as PC projects, they are also going very well. When I left for my meeting, Patrick had a schedule of steps to take towards completing the school project. When I got back yesterday with 30 more bags of cement, I was happy to see that everything planned had been completed beautifully. Three carpenters were hard at work. The foundation and frame were completed and the carpenters and masons plan to work every day until the work is done. Though a construction project can't really be considered sustainable development, it's nice to know that the community worked so well together in my absence.

The bead center has taken a back seat but only needs a bit more work for completion. My Moringa farm is flourishing and I will honestly miss my trees. I've been harvesting and drying leaves but haven't found a proper market outside Bormase.

And my toe is healing quickly!!
Feeling great!!

Love to all
Ira

Hands off development

With my national VAC meeting this week and plenty of essay work to do, I've left the school and bead projects behind me. After consecutive days starting with 6am meetings and extensive organization, I've left 90 2x6 boards, 80 2x4 boards and money for ten bags of cement in Bormase.

When I return next Monday, the bulk of the frame should be completed. I sure hope it really does get complete while I'm away.

In the meantime, I'll be re-working my essays and discussing the state of Peace Corps Ghana.

I guess the whole goal of Peace Corps is to complete sustainable projects so this will be a good test.

A nice anecdote from my busy few days at site: During our second trip for wood, the driver, Patrick, a few laborors and I took a detour to visit a local waterfall. I absolutely loved the detour and the fact that none of the Ghanaians with which I went had ever seen the falls. Just before leaving, I was ushered over to a small area behind the waterfall and told that it was the meeting place of dwarves. I have heard stories from other volunteers about the invisible dwarves but I had never had the joy of hearing a first hand account.

Too much essay writing has sapped my blog writing reserves.

Love to all,

VBP and 2 years in

Two years ago today, I got off the plane with 47 other Peace Corps trainees. There are now 30 other Peace Corps Volunteers in my group and I understand why Peace Corps service is two years long.

One week ago, George and Moro from Village Bicycle Project arrived in Bormase. Despite some minor mishaps, the week has been the best of my service hands down. Last Friday morning, roughly 55 of the 101 registered bicycle recipients showed up for a 7am meeting. Each one drew a number to determine which of the five, day-long sessions they would attend. The remaining 46 participants picked their respective numbers when they had a chance and we were set for the day.

From this meeting, I joined a yelling match at the school construction site. One community did their portion of community labor and were yelling about the distribution of work. I followed what I could of the Krobo chatter until I had to go wait for the truckload of bicycles to arrive. I spent a few minutes playing with my 4 month old neighbor Sweetie (her name is Esther but everyone calls her Swee-tee). When I heard a deep grumble down the road, I took the few steps that were needed for me to see down the road. As the truck approached, people spilled out of the bush cover and cheered to no end. By the time the truck stopped beside the church (the location of the sessions) there were at least forty people, bike recipients and otherwise, waiting and helping pull bikes off.

Patrick translated for each of the five sessions as bike recipients learned basic bike maintenance. They learned how to use spanners without damaging the bicycle. They learned to change a tire and how to patch a tube. They learned to check loose bearings and how to clean and oil a chain. At the end of each day, 20 new bike owners were released to the one Bormase road. With each day, the view from my front yard/dirt was more exciting.

One Tuesday, the headmaster from the primary school stopped by and asked for a meeting. Patrick and I went from the bike session to the school to see children teaching each other to ride their new bikes. When the headmaster left for summer break, funds weren't yet approved for the school improvement project. When he came back for the first day of the new term, over 100 cement blocks were sitting in front of the school. We discussed the plans for construction and the excitement that he and his staff shared was worth the work hands down.

As Patrick and I left, we saw children teaching their friends to ride a bike. Kids that couldn't ride a bike the day prior and had something so nice to call their own were eager to share it with friends. This was also well worth the work.

On Thursday, after our second to last session, Stephen had to patch a puncture before riding the 2 hours back to Asesewa. On the way, I rode my bike while he ran along, pushing his own from behind. I thought I'd help out by holding his handlebars while riding along. This seemed like a good idea until his bike started to veer away from me and I had to drop it. --Careful if squeamish-- When I dropped Stephen's bike, I had to put my sandal-clad foot down to catch my balance. In the tenth of a second that my foot was down, the handlebar of Stephen's bike landed on my big toe. It hurt but I biked on with clenched teeth. When I passed a cyclist going the opposite direction, I noticed that he was staring at my foot. I looked down and was sure that my band-aid was about to fall off. But I didn't have a band-aid on my toe. My big toenail had been ripped off and was flapping by a small bit of skin.

I'm OK now but was in a bit of shock for a moment. A little chunk of nail bed came away with the nail and I was bleeding quite a bit. My shower/dishes bucket became my foot soaking bucket. Stephen helped cut the nail away and we both tried to scrub away the clotted blood before realizing that the color difference was due to the depth of the cut. OUCH!!! I almost puked/passed out at that point.


Yesterday, we finished the bike project. Short of a few serious sneezing fits I've had in the past, I've never had so many people bless me in such a short period of time. I have never felt so good in Bormase. George and Moro left with a trunkful of plantains and yams.


I'm in Accra now, my toe feels good (looks awful) and I just had a great chat with a business school contact. Definitely straddling two worlds at the moment but absolutely loving it.

I will keep you all updated as things progress.

Love to all!!
Ira

All at once

When I was getting advice about readjusting to American culture, I didn't think that I'd be doing so much of it while still in Ghana.

Last Friday, I met with chiefs and elders to discuss the proper approach for the school project. I realize that while I kept the prospective project secret from the village (in case it didn't come through in time) I may have also kept it out of my blog entries.

The 52 year old Bormase Roman Catholic Primary School still consists of it's original cement block building. The building is partitioned into two classrooms for Kindergarten through P6. Over 100 students learn either in this building or under trees or makeshift thatch structures. This recent proposal covers the cost of the construction of three additional classrooms. On Monday, Patrick and I came to Koforidua to purchase 30 bags of cement and 15 nineteen foot iron rods. I shelled out almost 1,000 cedis in one day and felt odd fitting the Obruni stereotype of having money and throwing it around building schools.

While Patrick and I were in Koforidua, 40 community members convened and worked throughout the day collecting sand to be used on cement block construction. Tuesday and Wednesday were for bock construction. Tomorrow, I'll shift gears and greet the Village Bicycle Project and the 101 bicycles that have been paid for by Bormase community members.

Most of next week will be spent in classes of 20, teaching basic maintenance to every new bike owner. The bead structure is still under construction and my first business school application is due in less than one month.

I ordered a transcript and had an official score reported to Columbia today. Talk about having a foot in two different worlds. I've been working on essays when not running around the village on errands.

I'm sending all remaining energy towards the implosion of the Rockies and the appearance of a Giants offense.
It's hectic now but SO worth it.

Will keep you all updated on the progress.

Love to all,
Ira

Fufu Awards

After over a week with my fellow 2007-2009 Peace Corps Ghana Omnibus group (31 of our initial 48), the best way to sum up the time is with some highlights from our Fufu Awards. Our new Program and Training Officer Rob brought Fufu awards from his former post in Vanuatu. They're sort of like high school yearbook polls but funnier and more personal. Rob posted highlights from the 180 Fufu awards that were revealed during the conference and I've posted them below.

Most likely to:
• Take a calabash to a kegger – Gray
• Use Ghanaian English in the U.S. – Terri
• Design, sell, and wear her won Ghanaian line of clothes – Shawn Fox
• Still wear too much batik in America - Darren
• Have worms by COS – Daria
• Dress up like a guinea fowl for Halloween – Leanne
• Be a trophy wife - Katrina
• Use “I’m Irish!” excuse for drinking habits – Niall
• To be ticketed for “freeing” themselves in public – Jon
• Get lost on their COS trip and never make it home – Becka
• Eat dogs in America – Blake
• Be unrecognized by family at the airport - Chris
• Treat herself to a pedicure in America, give a pedicure in America, and date her pedicurist – Joy
• Try to take over the world – Carolyn
• Skip PC Conference sessions and sleep instead – Allison
• Feel threatened by other blondes in the U.S. –Caitlin
• Be rich and show it off – Ledor
• Bark like a seal when excited – Phil
• Always be a beach bum - Mandy
• Continue using Ghanaian hand gestures in America – Cheri
• Have the best foot tan lines – Erin
• Keep taking Lariam, not for the malaria, but for “the dreams dude.” – Will
• Succeed . . . with a mustache – Ira
• Have a nation-wide fan club upon the return home – Thuy
• Use the pickup line, “I lived in Africa” for the rest of his life – Jon
• Become a samurai warrior – Egan
• Stare awkwardly at you and then say, “thanks for the dance” – Ashley
• Request that all subordinates call him “Chief” - Larry

As you may have guessed, I rocked a sweet mustache for the conference. Gray and I ran into each other in Koforidua a few weeks before the conference and commented on each others unkempt facial scruff. For fun, we decided to manicure that scruff into a nice COS mustache. They were a hit for sure.

The conference focused on re-adjusting into American culture and the fast pace of life. Compared to previous conferences, this was amazing. The food and lodging was upgraded as a way of rewarding our hard work. We ate barracuda, shrimp and other tasty treats. At night, we let of steam at the hotel pool or on the beach. It was a nice head start at re-adjusting.

From the Peace Corps sanctioned event, many of us branched off onto an event of our own. All volunteers were invited to a beach hotel that was more Peace Corps speed. The rooms had sand floors and the beach had trash all over it. We enjoyed this place just as much as the previous, swank hotel. We used the faux-nerf football that I brought back from the USA to play football/volleyball on the beach court. We broke off into two teams and would simply throw the ball over the net in an attempt to make it un-catchable. It was kind of like anti-catch and it was incredibly fun. We spent our days playing cards when we were tired of football-volleyball and playing cards when physically exhausted. We are going to be very easy to please in the US.

On the last day of our time at the beach, a Lebanese ex-pat befriended a few from our group. Cheri was summoned from the football/volleyball court when Tanal started talking about his wakeboard boat. After two years of telling stories about water-skiing, Cheri was promised the opportunity to strut her stuff. The following morning, most of our group left the beach on their way to their respective sites. Cheri, Daria, Steve, Shawn and I waited for Tanal to make good on his word. I was skeptical until I saw the beautiful boat pull up just before 11am.

Cheri and Steve were incredibly impressive while I failed to even get up out of the water on my first series of attempts. Though I was frustrated, I was perfectly happy to see Cheri so happy and in her element. After I went, Tanal took a turn and wowed us all with back flips and other tricks. He also took the time to show us the 12 bathroom house he's having built beside the Volta River. Talk about a drastic change from live in the world of development.

I got a second try on the wakeboard and stood up on my second try. I felt like a baby learning to walk again but had an amazing time. Once I stood up for the first time, it was like second nature and I couldn't understand how it had been so difficult to figure out. Cheri took another turn on the slalom ski and looked as comfortable as she does waling down the street. Very nice to see.

As we finished too late to get a tro-tro back to Accra, Tanal and his driver (boat and car driver) David gave us a ride to Accra in a nice air conditioned car that took no more than half the time a tro would have. Talk about a head start on re-adjusting. I don't plan to spend my weekends on a wakeboard boat but I did have a nice time indeed.

While away from Bormase, my Small Project Assistance grant was funded by USAID so when I return to Bormase, we can start to work on the school improvement project that is about 50 years overdue. I can't wait!!!

Love to all.
Go Giants!!!!!


Ira

I little bit off

My last entry suggested that nothing was really going on. I guess I'm just getting used to doing a bit more.

The day prior to my last entry, I went to visit my fellow volunteer Marcus and we went on a great hike to Tsibi, a bead village atop a mountain/big hill. The view was incredible and the beads were some of the best I've seen in Ghana. Another volunteer Chris is working on a sort of tourist book that will help draw attention to artisan villages in the Eastern and Volta regions. It was quite a day but somehow didn't strike me as worth writing about.

Since last week, I've been reading at site, farming a bit in the Moringa field (another harvest molded in the humid air) and feeling surprisingly inactive. When I first got here, if I went to farm, fetched water, watched clothes and helped a bit at the store it felt as though I'd led a full day. These days I'm collecting money for the Village Bicycle Project, dealing with the Hannah situation, making plans for other projects that need finishing, working on grad school essays and still doing all the things that used to make the day feel full. Somehow it's still slow.

This past week, I held our regional VAC meeting at the Kumasi Sub Office. The meeting went well as we had no serious problems in the region. Expecting as many as fifteen people, I got ten kilos of frozen chicken for a BBQ. We had seven people attend but did our best, eating chicken at the slightest pang of hunger.

On Tuesday, the 33 remaining volunteers from my training group will meet at Ada, on the beach down south. We will have our COS conference, discussing how to readjust to life in America while discussing the work we've done and Peace Corps as a whole.

We haven't had an event with all of our training group without the other groups also in attendance. 4 days and three nights at the beach sounds great. I should have pictures and stories to share during and/or after that.

Love to all
Ira

Little to report

Life in Bormase is going well. Time is flying along and harvest season is here. I spent a full day de-husking maize with Dorothy and Stephen while Paul and John weeded. The bead center is on hold until more sand is delivered.

I've been focusing on business school apps of late. The time is quickly coming and with only a day or so per week with internet access, I want to have updates available when the electricity is there. Cranking away. So little time left, it's hard to believe

GO GIANTS!!!!

Love to all,
Ira

The next episode

It truly feels as though I've been involved in a soap opera for the last week. It doesn't quite live up to the Nollywood (Nigerian Hollywood) movies that are shown on long bus trips but that's only because the week has lacked screaming and juju.

I got back to Bormase one week ago to learn that Dorothy had asked about the Keebler biscuits that had been taken. A word to potential thieves out there, if you want to steal money, don't also steal foreign food and share it with your friends!!! It seems that Hannah stole my biscuits (crackers) and shared them with her friends after taking my 130 Ghana Cedis in proposal money. One day after confronting Hannah about the theft and getting nowhere, we got her to admit that she took my money and my biscuits. However, she only admitted to taking 80 Ghana Cedis. Apparently she stole 80 Ghana Cedis, went to market, bought nothing and came back with 80 Ghana Cedis but can't account for the remaining 50 Cedis that is missing. Makes sense.

On Friday morning, after meeting with Hannah and getting a confession, Patrick, Hannah's father-in-law Samuel (one of the Bead Center carpenters) and I went to Asesewa to buy the lumber for further construction. We bought the necessary lumber and upon learning that nails were overpriced in Asesewa, Patrick and I went to Koforidua to buy iron sheets and nails. By the end of the day, all materials needed for the construction of the frame and roof were purchased and delivered to Bormase.

On Friday evening, after dinner, Dorothy and I went to see Hannah again in order to see her plan for making amends. She refused to admit that she had taken the full amount. The longer she denied it, the more upset I became. This is a woman to whom I've brought money making projects and gifts, only to have her take my money and lie to my face about it. When she told me that she wouldn't steal again, I asked how she planned to earn money in the future she knelt down in front of me, held on to the leg of my trousers and said "I beg, I won't come there again."

She didn't say how she planned to earn money, she doesn't work or farm currently and has had to send the twins to stay with their grandmother elsewhere. I would be happy to hear that she had a plan for earning money or reason for taking the money. I would even be receptive to having her admit that she had taken the whole sum. By the end of the night, Hannah and Samuel agreed to pay the remaining sum within four weeks. Dorothy and I left with not much accomplished. Dorothy has had several hundred Cedis stolen in the past and is quite convinced that Hannah was responsible. Unfortunately, there is no way to prove that Hannah took that money so I will get my money back while Dorothy's hard earned money is still missing.

On Saturday, great progress was made on the construction of the bead center. I played with children, helped when my help was needed. While I was making progress on a very exciting project, I wasn't able to fully enjoy it while this drama was going on. People kept asking my why Hannah stole my money, what would happen to her etc.

Over the next few days, Emmanuel coordinated for the police to come to Hannah's house twice. They came one morning to be told that Hannah was not in the house. Hannah came by our house when Dorothy and Emmanuel were away in order to ask Stephen (back for a visit) if he would beg Emmanuel not to call the police. By the afternoon, Hannah had left Bormase.

The police came the next morning at 5am. I was awakened in case they had to ask me any questions. They didn't ask questions but went to Samuel to question the family about Hannah's whereabouts. Nothing was accomplished.

Over the next few days, Dorothy brought any development to me and chatted about it for a bit. Emmanuel found out where Hannah had gone. A woman in the community knew that Hannah had taken Dorothy's money in the past and knew that the family with whom she stays had known about the money and had spent it with Hannah. The woman who told Dorothy wasn't willing to say it officially because she was scared of what might happen.

The frame and roof of the Bead Center were completed on Monday and Tuesday. Patrick and I walked all around the village in order to purchase a fowl. In Krobo tradition, if you pay to have a carpenter build you a roof, you must slaughter a fowl to ensure that while you've sent their souls up to the roof, that they'll also come down safely.

A group of us poured libations, ate fufu and celebrated the great accomplishment and great addition to the community.

On Wednesday, Dorothy called from Sekesua to have me come to the Police station. I walked my white self into the Police station with all eyes on me. I was told that if I pressed charges, the case would go to trial and if convicted, Hannah would spend from 5 to 25 years in prison. There is no way that I'll press charges!! The whole time, people in the village were talking about how the family should involve the police so that Hannah could spend a night in jail and be released. I'm not sure if my presence made the police pay closer attention to the laws (not being able to imprison people without a charge) than they might otherwise.

This morning, Emmanuel called to tell Dorothy that if the money is brought to me, I should tell Hannah that she and the family now owe 40 Ghana Cedis more for the police fees. I also won't have anything to do with that part. My being robbed somehow put me in the middle of a heated family/village squabble. Nobody seems to blame me or hold a grudge but it's a very bittersweet situation.

The money should be returned by tomorrow and the Bead Center will be completed as planned.

Bittersweet indeed,

Love to all.
Ira

Groundbreaking developments

One week ago, Patrick came to meet me in Koforidua. We bought twenty bags of cement and twelve galvanized pipes in order to start the construction of Bormase's community bead center!!!

Several members of the bead group came to the work site on Monday and construction was started. Robert Mugabe (not sure why he likes to go by this name) showed up to give instructions and to ensure that the foundation was laid properly and that the pipes were set at appropriate height for the construction of the roof.

School children took shifts collecting sand and delivering it with head-pans and buckets until enough sand was available for the construction of cement blocks. Each child received a pencil in exchange for the work. It might sound terrible that we used the labor of 60 children in exchange for maybe three dollars worth of pencils but in the end, everybody benefited greatly. The children will take arts and crafts time to make traditional Krobo beads. The gift of a pencil was incredibly well received considering that the culture allows any adult to tell any children to do pretty much any chore at any time.

During the day, some of the workers took breaks to look at my MBA school catalogs and ask about the buildings and cars in various pictures. Trying to explain NYC is virtually impossible. A recent Secondary School graduate who studied building technology looked at some of the beautiful architecture at Georgetown University and walked me through how the roof wasn't made out of iron sheets but is made of a different material. Quite an experience.

We also took breaks to play with the various party favor-style toys that I brought back from the USA. Those small enclosed plastic mazes with a ball inside were a hit. Several men would race each other repeatedly, seeing who could get the little metal ball to the center first. Propellers on sticks were flying through the air throughout the day. Everything went great!! Rather than pushing to get work done, I was hanging out with friends while the worked on a project about which they were very excited.

The contractor showed up today to build cement bricks. Tomorrow, Patrick and I will travel with Mugabe to Asesewa to purchase wood for the roof. Construction of the roof will start on Saturday.

When I wasn't working, I turned 27 years old. Cheri came to meet me in Koforidua where we had beer and Fufu to celebrate. We walked a few miles to a small waterfall yesterday and got back to my site to see that some of my American food had been taken from my kitchen. I wasn't too worried about the peanut butter crackers but worried that somebody would go into my space when I was away.

This morning, I double checked my wallet to see that 130 Ghana Cedis of proposal money was missing. We have targeted a prime suspect and taken dirt samples form some footprints in my room and fingerprints from the peanut butter cookie wrappers. Seriously though, we thoroughly questioned Hannah, the mother of Atta and Lahweh. She has a habit of lurking around the house whenever Dorothy goes to market. Several hundred cedis have gone missing from Dorothy's bedroom in the past so she recently changed her locks. I never lock my room but hadn't come across any problems in the past. I've now locked up my house and will see how things stand when I get back to the village.

Love to all.
Ira

I'm Lovin' it!

No, I'm not plugging any golden arches. In fact, I was very happy to avoid McDonald's while in America. I still gained about 12 pounds!!!

Most of my first day back in Bormase was spent sleeping. I didn't realize how tired I was until I woke at 6:30, ate an egg sandwich, napped until 10:45, visited a few neighbors and then napped from a bit after noon until 3:45!!! No wonder I can't sleep at my usual bedtime of 8pm.

Life back in Bormase has been great. Michael and Patience are two new children at the house. They really live next door but after watching 5 year old Michael take care of his toddling sister for long enough, Dorothy unofficially adopted the two kids. They spend the day at our house while their parents farm etc.

Kicking a ball around, playing with bubbles and having incomprehensible conversations with small boys and small girls have been my favorite activities. Handing over earnings from the American bead bonanza was great too. Great thanks to all who helped the cause.

Today, Patrick is coming to meet me and we will purchase the cement for the community bead center. I can't wait!

Love to all
Ira

Adaptability

I know it's been a long time. I was in America!! I had constant access to internet and very full days but didn't take the time to write a blog entry. I was amazed at how easy it was to readjust.

Lugging 80 lbs of beads around in a broken suitcase made travel a bit difficult but balancing that with the efficient subway system and comfortable weather and Ghanaian travel is still far more strenuous. Getting the beads to the airport was one of the most physically demanding things I've ever done.

There is no way that I'll be able to summarize my time at home. I guess that's accurate with every blog entry. I can never share everything so I just crank out what comes readily to mind.

Megan and I wandered around NYC for a few days and had a great time catching up. Rob used the flexibility and perks of his new internship to fly from Chicago to New York for a 12 hour visit. I paid a visit to Columbia, met up with my friend Jay and had dinner and drinks with a number of Rob's classmates from Michigan. I was able to get a sense of business school life while getting to try all of the foods and drinks that I have missed so desperately. Staying up until what was 7am in my body even helped get my circadian rhythm back where it should be.

A night on Long Island started the family explosion that would be the next week straight. Steak, wine and amazing talks with a family I've missed very much kept the influx of joy going strong. I even got to play guitar hero (I know it came out well before I left for Peace Corps but I'm behind the times).

Dinners and planning and tennis and dinners and stories and beads and Jan Jan's service and stories and a bonfire.

So much happened in Vermont that I can't even begin to summarize. It was amazing meeting new people while catching up with others. I've finally hit the age at which I marvel at how old my baby cousins have become. A nice addition to that sensation is the realization of how amazing all of my cousins are and have become.

Visits to University of Virginia, Duke, UNC, Georgetown, Camden Yards and many great eateries helped sum up a spaztacular road trip with my Dad.

I caught up with my friend Sara and wandered NYC more. I ate the best steak in the history of the world. I left yesterday afternoon and got next to no sleep on the plane. One of my two checked bags was somehow lost during my direct flight (I must proudly say that after arriving with bags of 68 and 44 lbs respectively, I was able to rearrange to 50,0 and 49.5 lbs with a heavy backpack in one try!)

I'll be in Accra until at least tomorrow. I'm exhausted and need to sleep but I'm very ready and happy to be back.

Love to all
Ira

MJ

When I woke up on my last full pre-vacation morning in Bormase, I turned on my shortwave radio and immediately heard the news that the unparalleled Michael Jackson had passed away.

My plan for the day was to help Patrick and his family complete any last bead work that they hoped to send with me to America. For some serious cultural exchange, I got to his house at 8am and Patrick, Lizzie, Gladys and Tetteh sat on the floor stringing beads while listening to every Michael Jackson song on my iPod via portable speakers. Patrick had heard the news and knew the impact but Tetteh and Lizzie had no idea who they were listening to. Naturally, as is all but automatic when listening to Michael Jackson, everybody was bobbing and humming to the music within minutes. What better cultural exchange is there than making traditional Krobo jewelry while listening to music that changed America, race, music and the rest of the world?

When the bead work was complete and my room was packed, I was ready to leave for the USA. When thinking of coming back, I couldn't help but notice that during the first 25 years and three months of my life, I spent about one cumulative month outside the USA. Up until yesterday I had been outside the US for over 21 months straight. I was ready for a shock.

I left Bormase with an unbelievable amount of luggage. Gifts and beads provided most of the weight but I also wanted to clear my house of all items that won't fit in a hiking backpack for post-Peace Corps travels.

The journey to Accra went well, the tro did the work of carrying my luggage. When I got out of the tro with my hiking pack, backpack, duffel bag and Ghana Gucci (we volunteers use this term for the huge synthetic bags you can find in most China towns) I was ready to make the short walk to the office. The walk is the equivalent of maybe five blocks but naturally, it started raining just before I got out of the tro.

I hadn't distributed the weight properly so I had all sixty pounds of beads in the crappy cheap bag that I was carrying like a briefcase. The rain got harder and the stares more confused as I shuffled fifty meters at a time before stopping and standing in the middle of the sidewalk in the rain. I was convinced at the time that this brief five block walk was the most physically demanding thing that I had ever done in my life. Of course that can't be true but I was wiped out and soaked when I got to the office.

I had a fun night out with Gray, Erin, Travis and Marcus (a lucky group of friends to have in Accra) and the next morning was on my way to the USA (re-organizing my 80kg of luggage took some time and bribery).

No sleep, two meals and plenty of movies got me through the eleven hour direct flight with ease. I can't believe how easy eleven hours of travel has become. A few hours at baggage claim was a bit more of a pain but at about 7pm EST, I saw my beautiful big sister Megan for the first time in nearly two years!!! Chatting away felt normal maybe five minutes later.

The two of us were a site with Megan lugging a few bags and myself with a huge broken suitcase atop my head. Fortunately, it's New York City and nobody seemed surprised.

A taxi ride with and Ivorian driver, a walk through Manhattan, a big meal at ESPNzone while watching the Yankees play the Mets (what great timing) a long walk on a 70 degree NY night and a hot shower brought my 22 hour day to an end. Burning eyes, a comfortable hotel bed and no ability to sleep brought me this blog entry five hours later. Who knows that we'll do today but the options are endless and I'm definitely up for it. 20 lb weight gain, attempt number two has begun!!!

Love to all
Ira

Can't compare

Cheri and I are safely back in Ghana. The trip didn't go quite according to plan but we've grown quite accustomed to unfulfilled plans in Ghana.

From the hippo lake, Cheri and I went to our hut and enjoyed a day of laundry and relaxation. Just for kicks, I took a long stick and did my best to take a large black plastic bag from the crocodiles water hole. Just as I was thinking how lame it was that the crocodiles didn't react at all, the largest of the five whipped around and grabbed the end of the stick. I was quite far away and very much out of danger but I was given a first hand look of why these animals are so dangerous. I got a pretty huge adrenaline rush to boot.

That evening, we returned to Banfora and sought out bus scheduling for the next day. We caught an early bus to Bobo, wandered around the the day and eventually went out to a live drumming concert. The show was quite brief but not lacking in enthusiasm. When the artists left the stage, a number of them came over to chat with a fellow hotel patron of ours. After not too long, we were headed to accompany some of the musicians to a private party. We arrived a bit late and joined a large circle mixed with musicians on one side and party guests on the other. Each group consisted of about a dozen members and our hotel group of six joined the musicians.




Immediately, platters of food and cups of palm wine were passed around. We snacked and drank while watching drummers, flutists and xylophonists increase their energy with each song. Musicians traded places and instruments while many from the group began a beautiful and incredibly fast paced dance party in the center of courtyard in which we sat. The music and dancing continued to speed up until some members of our group took a turn and proved the difficulty of the others' dance moves by grinding the pace to a halt. We looked foolish but got a great response while thoroughly enjoying ourselves. I hope to upload a brief video from the evening if only to give a slight glimpse.

We made it back to the hotel by 2 am and were at the bus station at 6am. What better way to start a twelve hour travel day?

We reached Bamako in Mali just as the sun was setting. We struggled to locate a decent hotel and ended up staying at the Catholic Mission. Good conversation and some small small wandering were all we could muster up as we did not yet have our bearings and on a night when Ghana defeated Mali 2-0 in World Cup qualifiers in Bamako, we didn't want to take any risks.

The following day, we met up with some fellow PCVs from Mali and Mauritania. The automatic camaraderie that Peace Corps service creates is undeniable. Everyone we met was very welcoming and unbelievably helpful. A group of maybe twenty of us (many traveled to see the football match) spent the night having beers and trading Peace Corps stories. As usual, representatives from each country harped a bit about the unique difficulties of their respective sites. Ghana has the beach and fresh fruit. Burkina Faso has steak sandwiches, yogurt, cheese and good transportation. Mali has amazing culture, rock climbing and nice silver. Mauritania has sand and a completely alcohol free host country. They can pretty much shut down any complaint about Peace Corps service. They got what I pictured when I learned I was coming to Africa. They have mud huts, limited food and the need to go on overnight alcohol smuggling missions on donkey cart whenever they want to have a party. We had a great night and again got to sleep at around 2am, arrived at the bus station at 6am and slept for most of our twelve hour bus ride to Mopti.

By the time we reached Mopti, we had learned about the dissolution of parliament in Niger and about the travel restriction from June 2 through June 9. On June 7 I learned that the restriction was changed to be only June 7-9. On June 10, I learned that the restriction was postponed to June 14. Our vacation had to end on June 14 so after two nights in Mopti (including a nice pirogue ride on the Niger River) we realized that we could only get to Togo if we traveled all the way South through Burkina Faso and Ghana. We traveled for the better part of 50 hours in order to spend a nice relaxing day on the beach in Togo. Our trip to Burkina Faso, Mali, Niger, Benin and Togo became Burkina Faso, Mali, Burkina Faso, Ghana and Togo. It was amazing and completely humbling.



We were reminded of the difficulties of travel in the third world. When asking about the travel restrictions for Niger, a Peace Corps employee told us that since a hostage was just recently killed and Al Qaeda knows that the USA doesn't negotiate with terrorists, we would probably not get kidnapped crossing the border but it wasn't a good idea. Many volunteers complain about the strict, overbearing restrictions that are sometimes placed over us. When the rules keep us from traveling into countries with active terrorist organizations or strong coup potential, I can't help but be thankful.

Love to all
Ira

QWERTY

Same day but on a normal keyboard. I'm now in the Peace Corps Mali office and can use a keyboard that doesn't make me feel like I'm learning to type all over again. I don't know how hunt and peckers can do it.

Cheri and I went from Ouagadougou through Bobo Dialasso to Banfora. From Banfora we went to Tengrila in order to visit what guide books and Peace Corps Burkina Faso volunteers said would be a nice lake.

We arrived in the late morning and were greeted by a largy man with small tight dreadlocks who introduced himself as Souleyman. He set us up in our round mud hut and then showed us around his place, playing xylophone and drums like it was his job (it turns out that it is his job). He showed us his crocodile pond which held five crocodiles ranging from four to six feet in length. The housing compound had a monstrous Mango tree in the center and had plenty of tables, chairs and hammocks for relaxing. After getting settled, Cheri and I wandered to the nearby lake. We were scheduled for a 6am pirogue tour the following morning but thought that it would be nice to get a lay of the land. On the way, a nice young Burkinabe peddled his bike beside us and chatted in broken enlish. We chatted back in broken but improving French while working towards the lake. The three of us spent most of that afternoon sitting lakeside and chatting, each of us learning much desired foreign language skills.

I had to leave the qwerty keyboard and Im back on azerty so again slow.

The last morning in Tengrila Cheri and I were scheduled to take a pirogue ride at 6am. Cell phone malfunctions allowed us to sleep until half past six and we hurriedly left the hut to find out guide. He was nowhere to be seen so we continued toward the lake. Our Burkinabe buddy met us along the way and ended up guiding us on a pirogue to within twenty feet of a family of hippos. I was initially nervous but saw a man standing waist deep fishing only 20 meters away. What a great way to start the day.

I am impatient with this keyboard so will sign off. Our travel plans have been thwarted a bit due to an Al Qaeda presence in Northern Mali and the dissolution of parliament in Niger. Further updates when we know more.

I Mali now, back through Ouagadougou due to travel restrictions tomorrow.

Love to all:

Ira

le blanc

Now that Cheri and I have left Ghana, we have turned from Siliminga and Blefono respectively to Le Blanc. The big difference now is that neither of us can wow the offenders by rattling of something clever in the local language. The two of us share maybe one hundred words in French but have been using the numerous hours of travel to pick up some extra phrases via downloaded lessons on the ipod.

I am on a French keyboard and not feeling patient enough to catch up on every part of out trip but I will offer some highlights.

From Accra we went to Kumasi for a night. The next morning we joined a 7 hour bus to Bolgatanga of the Upper East Region. We stayed at the house of a local radio DJ, drank pito and attended the going away party of a fellow PCV.

From Bolga we went to Ouagadougou where we unexpectedly spent three nights. A day wandering the newly re=opened Grande Marchez, an evening with an Irovian friend of Cheris, a makeshift picnic in a very dry but still nice forest. Many many steak sandwiches and we left for Banfora. We got in a bit late so had a meal and planned the next adventure.

The next morning, we tried to rent bicyles and check out a lake nearby. In trying to ensure that we had helmets, we clearly misled out hosts and wer subsequently led on a long walk through busy, moto filled, muddy streets until we met a market seller who had sold large straw hats that would be much more appropriate for a rice paddy than for a long bikerid. The mud, traffic and lack of head protection made us feel fine about scrapping the bike idea and taking a taxi.

The keyboard has worn me out so I will catch you all up on the rest next time. Now in Banfora then to Mopti then Niamey. Break out the map.

Love to all
Ira

Travel time

While packing my things for an upcoming West African adventure, I thought that I'd pack up some of the things that I no longer need in Ghana. Since I'm heading back the the USA shortly after I return from tro'ing through the third world, I wanted to start clearing out those things that I won't want to travel with later.

This process was surprisingly emotional!! I won't be leaving for around six months but the process of packing bags and emptying my house really started getting to me. This isn't like leaving for college or even moving to Ghana for two years. When I leave here, I can guarantee that I'll never see or hear from many of my closest friends and neighbors. I definitely hope to come back to Ghana when I can but there's no telling what can happen in the time it takes for that hope to become a possibility. We'll see how it goes when the time comes.

As for now, Cheri and I have begun what will be a five country (six if Ghana counts) West African tour. The adventures began early when our scheduling continued to be delayed. Making a schedule while working in development is asking for trouble. We were going to leave in December but we were put on standfast during the election. We pushed the trip back to March but work got in the way. We finally purchased our five country Visa the week of my GMAT but between that time and now, we have each had projects funded, started and completed. When quality work can actually be completed, everything else must take a back seat.

Unfortunately, our Visas were single entry and lasted only 2 months. They expire only four days into our current itinerary. After some haggling and borderline begging, we were able to extend our Visas but not before paying half the original price.

We each rushed to get some last minute work done. We got proposals submitted so our time away can work for us and the waiting game won't seem quite so bad. We got to the tro station and were quickly ushered to a Kumasi tro by a very eager man. Cheri and I know to be wary of anyone who openly offers to help but I thought we could handle the situation.

We were rushed to a nearly full tro and assured that it was full and leaving ASAP. Of course it wasn't. Accustomed to waiting, we paid for our seats and sat. Twenty minutes later, the car was about full and the driver had a hard time starting the engine. Angry about being dooped and feeling impatient, I suggested that we bail on this car and take a "fast car." A fast car has air conditioning and doesn't make many stops along the way. We demanded our money back but naturally did not get our way immediately. Those seated in the car became insistant that we stay. The assured us that we would leave immediately. Of course they just didn't want us to cause further delay.

The mate and driver of the tro refused to give us money for our tickets since they were not the issuers of said ticket. We were told to give the ticket back so that they could sell it to the next passengers and get our money back. No money and no ticket in hand? No thanks!!! We made a bit of a scene but finally got our money back. We got into a nice air conditioned van, away from the tro full of hate that we had just created. If we're about to travel through some of the poorest countries in the world via public transport, we might as well get through familiar territory in comfort.

We're now in Kumasi, completing some last minute work in order to ensure max relaxation during our vacation. I promise to take pictures and to figure out why my camera won't upload them.

Love to all.
Also, thank you to Cheri's mom Jill for a wonderful visit, exceptional meals and great conversation.

Ira

Krobo Drama

I mentioned recently that Lydie and Maku have moved home to their respective family homes. It seems that Lydie was stealing money and food from the house store. She would take rice, sardines and other food items to school and feed her friends at lunch.

Since Dorothy doesn't keep very detailed books, she did not know about the problem for what seems like quite a while. She noticed that the till would be low when Lydie and Maku were left at home but I guess she wasn't ready to accuse them of stealing. One day, she found that 65 Ghana Cedis had been taken and that a bag of new clothes was in the girls' room. Since then, I have not seen the girls. Bad news!!

When discussing the issue, Dorothy told me that whenever she's ready to complain about her problems, she thinks of them as a load of trash that she has to take the the dump. She knows that any time she would arrive at the dump, she would see plenty of her neighbors arriving at the same time, dumping much larger loads.

When at market last week, Dorothy heard of a woman who had fallen ill. When the woman went to her preferred juju man, he told her that he knew that she was keeping a secret and that should would not get better until she came clean. It turned out that the woman had been having affairs with many neighbors. Sh came clean to her husband and the husband quickly contacted the five men and demanded that they each pay 4,000 GHana Cedis (when telling the story, Dorothy used the old currency and said forty million which sounds better). As of the end of the day, only one man had been able to pay 200 Ghana Cedis. I told Dorothy that this punishment was far different than what would happen in the US. When infidelity comes to light, it isn't common for the offending party to stay with their husband/wife while the person they cheated with pays the family. Unfortunately, I honestly believe that there would be more infidelity in America if things worked this way. If your wife cheats on you with 5 men, you will make 20,000 dollars!!! Terrible but I'm sure people would take that opportunity every day.

When chatting about this story with Patrick, I learned of a different, more unbelievable story that had been floating around Krobo land. A neighboring community has a weekly market day on Thursdays. The market site sits beside a river so many families travel to the market by canoe or boat. Apparently, the wife of a local fisherman had been using the market as a weekly opportunity to visit a mystery lover. The identity of the man was found out and friends of the husband told him what was going on. The guilty party turned out to be a friend of the husband. The husband tried to play the bigger man and visited the friend, telling him to put a stop to the affair. The very next week, the wife of this bigger man stuck to her weekly schedule and went to visit the friend of her husband. Trusting neither his wife nor his friend, the husband paid a visit to his own juju man during the week so as the story goes, the philandering man and her lover became stuck together during the act of copulation. I have seen this happen with dogs but have never even heard of such a thing happening with people.

Apparently, people heard of the unfortunate predicament and went to tell the husband. Unfazed, the man went to his friends house and demanded 1,000 Ghana Cedis payment. Without payment, he would not visit his juju man and have the curse reversed. The now former friend paid and the pair were released. As I sat, doubting the story but enjoying it nonetheless, a fellow audience member must have overheard my thoughts when he asked "what did they do about food?" They had been stuck for over 12 hours. "The man's penis became larger than my thigh" Patrick shared with undying sincerity. He said that naturally the pair were not worried about food.

Who need Jerry Springer?

On another, more serious and very appreciative note, my PCPP has been fully funded!!! The last time I checked, over 1100 dollars were needed. That was only 5 days ago!!! Thanks to everyone who contributed or who shared the link to the webpage. I will keep you all updated as the project continues.

Love to all!
Ira