Carepool, carepool, carepool

Arriving late in Allahabad, we were unable to book a train before the ticket office closed. Having had success with a waiting list ticket in Agra, we bought a ticket to Jaipur early the next morning and had a wander around. At the time of our train, we were still on the waiting list and would have to take our chances.

We boarded that 12pm train when it arrived at 1:35pm. With all of the bunks full, we felt out the situation and Cheri finally asked a friendly man about a seemingly empty bunk. The bunk turned out to be occupied but we were told that two people would be departing at the next stop and we would be able to take their bunks. We stashed our bags where space was available, we sat and we waited.

Within minutes, a little girl ten feet away began to poke her head out, disappearing at the slightest semblance of eye contact. This game continued for a while before the girl and her mother came over for an introduction. Apparently the girl had been telling her mother that a dee-dee (big sister) was sitting close and she wanted to shake hands. We joined the pair and sat with mother, father, 5 year old daughter and 2 year old son. We talked about life, religion, America, India, arranged marriages and more. Cheri and I were treated to cookies, chips, Indian food and of course great company.

With the train delay, we weren't scheduled to arrive until 2am. When the time came, we managed to get two berths (mine was not enclosed so I fit much better than last time).

Arriving in Jaipur a little after 2am, we learned that our preferred hostel was booked and we were ushered around by rickshaw until finding suitable accommodation. A few hours at a rooftop hookah bar and many hours wandering the gorgeous bazaars of the pink city allowed us to get our fill of Jaipur. We were off on another late night trip, this time to Pushkar.

We arrived in Pushkar at 1:30am and the first thing we saw was a man drawing a trailer full of hay by camel. The next thing was a mini stampede of a dozen cows. Soon, however, a nice young man brought us to his family guesthouse where we found very inexpensive accommodation for the remainder of the night.

Unsure about how long we would stay in Pushkar, Cheri and I left our hostel with the idea of getting bus times for Udaipur. On the way, we found a signboard for camel tours. Cheri stayed to sort out the camel tours while I continued to the bus station.

When leaving the bus station, I saw Cheri approaching on the back of a motorbike. I joined the motorbike and we settled on an overnight camel trip into a nearby village with our host Kalu. A few hours later, I boarded Ramjes with my ten year old guide Rahul behind me. Cheri boarded Krishna with Papa (I forget his real name) seated behind her. The view was great and the ride not terribly uncomfortable. Several children asked for school pens or rupees but for the most part we were left alone.

My guide Rahul spoke limited Enlish but repeatedly told me "you happy boss, me happy." When we approached tree limbs or plants, he would cautiously tell me "carepool sir, carepool, carepool, carepool." We had a playful game of debating who was the boss of whom with my insisting that he was in charge.

An added element to our trip was the fact that our two male camels were in heat. Without notice, they would explode with a loud gurgling sound (think of an exaggerated version of when your stomach tells you that you've eaten something terribly wrong) and their massive tongues would spew out from their closed mouths. It looked as though they were regurgitating their own stomachs but gave for a good laugh.

Upon arriving at Kalu's family home, we were greeted by grandmother, dog, dancing horse and many goats. After a short walk, several more family members arrived and Cheri and I each realized that we had been desperately craving family time. Watching Kalu's mother Santos prepare what turned out to be maybe the best meal of my life reminded me of Ghana. The joking nature and clear love shared among the family was a real treat and I hope to go back. An Australian business owner joined the group, explaining that she has stayed with Kalu and family for 4 years on and off when she comes for materials for her textile business. She was a clear member of the family and exacerbated the longing for Ghana. Cheri and I both loved and needed this night.

The next day, we walked the colorful, touristy main street of Pushkar before taking an overnight bus to Udaipur. The connecting bus from Pushkar to Ajmer had us picked up by a rickshaw but with no prior explanation, we felt a bit as though we were being abducted or led on a scam mission. Eventually we arrived at our correct bus and got to Udaipur this morning at 5am. I am taking a much needed rest/reorganization day while Cheri wanders the town.

More later.

Love to all
Ira