Thursday, November 29, 2007

Soccer experience abridged

Having been in Ghana for 2 1/2 months now, I have a good number of soccer experiences to share. Though I would have liked to give great details about each experience, I'll have to give a chronological account of what I've been able to enjoy while in the Techiman area.

Week 3: After watching the local Aworowa team play each afternoon while walking from sector lessons to my home, it was time to stop explaining to onlookers that "Yes, I know what football is." Will and I got out of class early one afternoon and headed to the pitch at around 3:30. Several of the guys were sitting around playing cards but nobody else was playing yet. Will and I started to warm up and kick the ball around. Slowly but surely, we heard jeers and laughter as onlookers realized that we had actually touched a ball before. As some local players joined, I decided to get in goal and let people take shots to warm up. I haven't played keeper since I was maybe 12 but thought it would be fun to let the guys take shots on the Obruni. I'm no Barthez but I turned away most of the shots that came my way and within minutes was getting invitations to play keeper during the afternoons game. I decided to play on the field.

Teams were divided and I was put on the "skins" team. Never have I felt so white!! I'm sure that the darkest freckle on my body would look like a pale imperfection on the body of any of my teammates. As the game started, more and more spectators trickled in. I was taking it slow since the field is about 70% clay dust, full of pot-holes and sits with a 5% decline towards the goal I was attacking. Unsure of my touch and cautious about the strength of my knee, I kept every possession to one or two touches. Not long after the game started however, one of those touches resulted in a half volley rocket to break a 0-0 tie. I received a cross from the left side and made great contact with the laces of my Puma Roma's. The response was amazing. My team erupted and I was getting hugs and high fives from guys who laughed at my presence not an hour earlier.

The game ended in a 2-2 tie and Will scored a penalty kick to keep the obruni score tied also. My pride kept me on the field for the entire game though by the end, I was so dehydrated that I could spit no farther than my upper lip. The next morning, men women and children around town greeted me with an entirely new attitude. "Wo ko bobo??" they would ask as they swung their legs at an imaginary ball. No matter what time of day or what clothes I was wearing, I was asked if I was on my way to play football. When you're one of 6 white people in a town, word spreads fast if anything happens and gaining the reputation of a talented football player is much as I could have hoped for.

Week 5: After a few makeshift practices with my fellow trainees, the time came for Trainee vs. Trainer match #1. We met in the SED training town of Nsuta and at 3pm were matched up against language trainers, Peace Corps volunteers and drivers. Our roster boasted two college players, a few high schoolers and many other dedicated though inexperienced players. While outshooting our opposition maybe 25-5, we lost 3-1 and left the field exhausted and dejected. I'll admit that at certain points in the game, we connected 3 or 4 one touch passes down the field and looked like a real team.

Week 9: With only one rain interrupted Aworowa practice since the fifth week, it was time for our rematch with the trainers. This time we played in Akrofrom, a sister town to Aworowa. By this time, we had all passed our respective language exams and had moved out of our homestay sites. With over 100 onlookers present, retribution was achieved!! I scored on a breakaway after 15 minutes of peppering the opposing goal with shots. Egan and Jon scored goals of their own before half time and Caitlin put away our one goal of the second half to give a 4-0 lead. The trainers scored a late goal to give a final score of 4-1 but we felt GOOD. Training was over, we were preparing to move to site and we played some beautiful soccer while looking like a real team. It's a bit sad that we won't play as a team again while in Ghana. We've all dispersed and many of us will only see each other a few more times while in country. Bitter-sweet for sure but as always, I'll focus on the sweet!

Love to you all.

Happy Birthday Gran Fran!!!!!!!

Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Another brief note

I forgot to mention a strange situation that I enjoyed this morning. While still funny, this is more gross than anything. My puppy Kua (it means Monkey in Dangme)is 2 months old and very cute. She's been living with my homestay family since I've been there and yesterday, I finally took her with me.

This morning, while preparing to move from the Dery Hotel following swearing in; I was woken up by somebody knocking on the door and saying "Your dog is covered in shit!!"

I left the room to find the tiny pup shivering while some of my fellow volunteers held her still and doused her in sachet water (I think I've explained that we drink water from .5 liter bags). I proceeded to take the dog to the shower, hold her in my arms while washing human feces from her fur. I'm not sure how it happened but it seems that she must have fallen in one of the many open drainage ditches in the area.

While bathing Kua, I noticed a few ticks in her ears so after the shower, I pulled no less than 10 ticks (some as large as watermelon seeds) from her ears.

Gross but not really a big deal while living in Africa.

Brief Update

I'm an official Peace Corps Volunteer. We had our swearing in ceremony yesterday. All around I'd say that it went well. As far as my direct connection is concerned, I played African drums during part of the ceremony and took part in a skit in Dangme in front of Peace Corps officials, host families and volunteers.

It's crazy to think that we're through training and the 2 year countdown is starting.

To get an idea of how quickly one can acclamate to a new environment, please consider the following situation:

I'm sitting in my compound listening to the Ghana vs. Togo soccer game. The radio commentator is speaking Twi. I couldn't understand anything but got a good idea of what was going on by listening to the intonation pattern.

When a goal was scored and people around me started to react, I took a moment to actually look around.

Ten feet in front of me, an eight year old girl was sitting in a metal bucket, taking a bath. Her 10 year old brother was running around naked while waiting for his turn in the bucket. 15 feet to my left, some mystery woman (she appeared randomly in the compound while I was away for a few days)was nursing her 4 month old baby. Across the compound, the 75 year old grandmother sat shucking corn with while wearing only a piece of cloth around her waist. Three young men sit eating Fufu on the other side of the compound. Since I've lived in Ghana, I've not been able to communicate with them and I'm not quite sure how they're connected.

Not only is this situation normal, it seems that I'm writing a boring entry since it's so common to me now.

Weird. I'll update soon.

Love you all!

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Travel

I know I just posted yesterday but I'd like to share another travel experience. Site visit came to a close today so I made plans with my 4 fellow Eastern Region trainees to meet at the Koforidua bus station at 10am this morning. The plan was as follows:

5:30- Wake up and ensure that I'm properly packed and ready to go.
6:00-7:00- Breakfast and help with any odd chores that need doing.
7:30- Go with Dorothy (host site Mother) to the Sekesua market where she sells eggs and other goodies every Wednesday.
8:30- Board a taxi from Sekesua to Koforidua to ensure that I'm there by 10am (the ride shouldn't take more than an hour)
10:00- meet with my fellow trainees and wait for the Kumasi bound bus.
2:00ish- arrive at the Kumasi sub-office for a nice afternoon of R&R. (Please don't think that I expected every aspect of this plan to go smoothly)

Actual travel day:
5:30- Wake up and ensure that I'm properly packed and ready to go.
6:00-7:00- Make 2 trips to the borehole down the road to fetch water. They're starting me out with the small bucket. It's maybe 1/3 the size of the normal bucket. I tried Ghanaian style on the second trip and put the bucket on my head. I'm proud to say that I only spilled a little and not at all until taking the bucket down from my head. The small spill was still enough to soak my clothes from naval to knee. During this time I also enjoyed maybe a half dozen impromptu language lessons.
7:00-7:30- Prepared and ate breakfast
7:30-8:20- Spoke with my supervisor/site father about prospective projects for the next two years while waiting for the Sekesua car to arrive.
8:20-8:40- joined the Sekesua car and travelled the 2.5 Km to the market. YES, it took 20 minutes to travel 2.5 Km due to the stops and the cramming of people/foodstuffs.
8:40-9:10- Helped Dorothy set up her market while struggling to greet people in Dangme before rushing off to get the Koforidua car.
9:10-10:25- Sat by myself in the Koforidua car while waiting for the car to fill. Sweat completely through the front and back of my shirt.
10:25-11:05- Travelled in a taxi (think VERY compact car) while sharing the back seat with 3 Ghanaians. The woman to my immediate right was quite large and had 4 live chickens sitting on her lap!!
11:05-1:00- Sat with my 4 co-trainees in the Kumasi bound bus until it was completely full.
1:00-4:00- Travelled from Koforidua to Kumasi with minimal disruption.
4:00- Finally took off the t-shirt that was STILL drenched with sweat.

From what I understand, this is a successful commute. I just wanted to give a few details. No matter how well prepared I am for any particular day, I'm still in Ghana and time/urgency is not the same.

Tuesday, November 13, 2007

Site Visit

Get ready for a whole new list of anxieties and concerns. For the past 4 days, we've all been staying at our site. We now know where and with whom we'll be living for the next 2 years. Just before site visit, we had a 3 day workshop with our supervisors and counterparts. Since I had already met mine, I had a very interesting vantage point during this time. I could see how each PCT was dealing with his/her particular worries. Some found out that they'll be learning a language different from what they've been taught while others learned that they'll be living in what would be American mansions. One trainee is having a latrine built specifically for her. The addition of this latrine will be the second in a village of over 2,000 people. Nurses use one latrine, this volunteer will use the other while the 2,000 residents use the road or bush as a toilet.

This week will let us all know what to expect. I'm getting used to going to bed at 6 or 7 o'clock since there is no electricity. Reading by candlelight with rain pounding on my zinc roof is something that I can definitely get used to.

A few things to look forward to:

I announced my food sharing idea to the 130 or so people at the counterpart workshop. It felt like my voice was shaking and my thoughts were going wild but my friends say that I was perfectly coherent. Step one is complete but we'll see how much traction is made moving forward. I'm thinking of getting some official looking certificates made and having churches make collections. It seems that in Ghana, it's hard to get people to donate goods but when you add religion and can give something in return, the possibility seems to be much greater.

An order has been placed for the first 500 Moringa seeds so when I get to site, I can nurse the first 500 trees while we're in the dry season. 3 months of growth will be a great head start for the "Johnny Moringaseed," project.

Honey harvests start in December so I'll also be able to take part in the process. I'm very excited about this idea!! My supervisor hopes that the two of us will be able to write an instructional book about beekeeping in collaboration with citrus farming. I don't know more than that but I'm all for it.

Baby weigh ins and polio vaccines also start in December. This will be a great way to meet everyone in the community.

I spent today in Koforidua market. I'm so happy to have been placed in the Eastern region. The market here is great, the biggest bead market in West Africa is held every Thursday!!!

More to come. Love to all!!

Tuesday, November 6, 2007

Quick news

Time is flying by over here in Ghana. While it's still surreal to think that I'll be here for over 2 years, it's also difficult to think that I've been here for the better part of 2 months. While each day moves a bit slowly, the weeks and months are flying by.

Over the past few weeks, we Aworowa (Environment) volunteers have been doing our best to give back to the community. We have now had 3 meetings with our Environment Club and each time we visit, the children are more engaged and receptive.

Our last visit was not about the Environment but was an opportunity to make our first HIV/AIDS presentation. Our group is 3 men and 3 women so we split the club according to gender. I recommended this as a way to minimize the embarrassment/acting up. This seemed to work well as the kids (13-15 yrs old) asked great questions.

As far as the presentation is concerned, we focused on the ABC's of HIV and AIDS prevention

A- Absitenence
B- Be Faithful
C- Condom use

Considering the age, we continually re-iterated that absitence is the only 100% safe sexual practice but beyond that I feel that we were very honest and helpful.

We played a Lions/Elephants game in which one student is a baby elephant, 6 students act as protective adult elephants while 4 students are predatory lions who are trying to take the baby elephant away. After each attempt, a student acting as a hunter comes and takes away two of the adult elephants. Obviously, each time, it's easier for the Lions to take the baby elephant. Can you guess what each character represents? The baby elephant is your life, the adult elephants are your immune system, the lions are various illnesses and the hunter is AIDS. It was a great way to get the students involved and really gets the point across. While AIDS doesn't kill you by itself, it destroys your immune system and makes it easier for other illnesses to kill you.

The next game was like a cat and mouse game in which one student tries to tag the others as they run past through a designated field. All those who make it safely across get to run again while those who are tagged must help tag the runners. I'm assume you get the idea. This game was an example of how even if one person has HIV, they can spread it to everybody indirectly if not practicing safe sex.

We played this cat/mouse game for 3 rounds. During round two, the students were given the option to stay behind the line in the safety zone (abstinence). It was no surprise that some rogue students tested the system but those who ran were all eventually caught.

Prior to the third round, we gave each student a folded up piece of paper with an X or an O on it. After all of the students were tagged, we allowed them to reveal the letter on the paper. Those with an O were said to have worn a condom and were brought back to safety.

After the games, we opened the floor for questions. Kwame, the group president solemnly asked; "If a witch comes and eats you during the night, is it possible for you to get HIV?" I wasn't sure how to answer this but all of the students looked on with sincere interest. So as not to insult local folklore, I asked if the witch had HIV and reminded the students of the 4 fluids through which it can be transmitted. After my explanation, the headmaster came by to say that it's common knowledge that witches will boil or cook your flesh before she eats you so the virus would die before you are eaten. I'm not sure if HIV affects people after they've been eaten alive but I didn't want to get too deep into that.

For the second straight meeting, a local FM station was present and took notes and interviewed us. Only 6 weeks in the country and I've been on TV and on the radio. It's strange for sure!!

Sorry I'm slacking on the soccer stories, there are more to add and I'll get to it soon enough.

We all go see our site this week so there should be new excitement/trepidation amongst the group.

I've been trying to implement a food sharing program between volunteers in the South and those in the North. For those who don't know, there have been issues with flood/drought in the North and the coming dry season could prove very trying.

A few of us met with members of the Ministry of Food and Agriculture as a first step so I know that a great deal of action has already been taken. I'll keep you all updated as to whether or not we're able to get a program together.

Love to all!!