Monday, December 22, 2008

Immaculate Misconception

The night I got back to Bormase after posting my last blog entry, I biked uphill from the junction lugging all my my food etc. and arrived just in time for dinner. Exhausted, I was looking forward to eating, bathing and going to sleep. At dinner, Dorothy decided (for the second straight night) to speak to me in only Krobo and ignore anything that I said in English. If I asked a question, she would turn to other members at the table, say something in Krobo and enjoy a good laugh. After two weeks away from site, already anxious about my loss of language skills, I didn't react well. I raised my voice (maybe the first time since I've been there?) and told her how I didn't appreciate her doing what she was doing. She told me that she's explained certain things to me in Krobo several times and I still don't remember them. I kept the conversation civil and told her that I'm trying but that I'm not able to converse in only Krobo. She agreed to speak in English moving forward but I was still very upset. I went to bed worried that my presence wasn't appreciated and that my relationship with my host family was on the way towards being spoiled.

Just a quick look at the confusion that is the Krobo language.

gbe - dog
Ma gbe mo - I will beat you
O nge gbe ye lo? - Are you scared?
E gbe nya - It's finished

Please notice that gbe is used in four different ways. It's pronounced the same each time. Gbe is definitely not the only word in the language that has various meanings. I'm no savant when it comes to language but I am definitely trying and improving. We'll see how it progresses.

In the morning, I went early to Patrick's house to help make some new beads. We sat and worked all day while mixing in small Krobo lessons and discussing possible projects for the future. I joked and laughed with Patrick's children and several visitors as they came by the house. The general feeling was so far from the feeling at my own house and it was a great relief. I ended the day with a nice, exhausting football practice. Stephen approached me in the evening and asked about what had transpired the previous evening and I explained that I was tired and really didn't appreciate the approach that Dorothy took. Stephen suggested that we meet with Emmanuel and have him tell his wife to act differently. Stephen has been talking about how Dorothy's constant yelling is exhausting and hurts the general feeling of the house. I told him that I'm sure it's in response to the constant financial stress she's under and the fact that she's in charge of keeping a house running while 7 children are in the house. For now I'll bite the bullet and spend more time away from the house. I know that it will be better for me and I imagine that Dorothy will get some extra rest with one less person in the house.

On Saturday morning, I returned to Patrick's for some more bead work. I helped fill some molds with glass powder, talked with Patrick about other plans for the upcoming year and relaxed. While returning from an errand to my house, I stopped by the borehole and hung out with some of the younger children of the area. Despite the weather, it's really beginning to look a lot like Christmas. Children are home from school and everyone is going around town with big smiles and happy greetings. I played with the kids for a while (pictures coming, the internet here is too slow) and returned to Patrick's for what turned out to be an afternoon of playing board games. We played a Ghanaian game that is somewhat similar to Sorry. The relaxed nature and constant joking made me feel more at home than I've felt since moving to Bormase. I seldom feel out of place but until this past week, I haven't felt like a real member of the community. It's a wonderful feeling!!

As I walked back into the compound surrounding my house, I saw two young children playing on the veranda with their mother. This is far from an uncommon site as children are coming by the house all day but as I got closer, I saw that Atta and Lahweh were back with their mother Hannah. When I was first assigned to stay in Bormase, one of the most exciting prospects of the post was the opportunity to live with these twins while they grew from 18 months to three and a half years old. Unfortunately, they moved away just after Chrismas last year. Now, they're back for Christmas and my abundant joy was met with sheer terror from both twins. For the next several hours, every time I was in view, both children would scream and run away crying. When Atta or Lahweh walked into the courtyard, they'd check my door and then sprint to where they were going. At dinner, thy crying began as I walked up to the table and lasted until I had finished eating. Just before leaving the table, I put out my hand and each of the twins stopped crying and slapped a hand in mine for a good handshake.

The next morning, both twins cried and ran the first time they saw me. Within a few hours, we were chatting away in garbled Krobo and having a good time (more pictures to come). Yesterday afternoon, a large wedding ceremony was held at the local primary school. A football match was also scheduled so I arrived at the site around 3pm for the match. A few days prior, I helped prepare the field by holding a new piece of bamboo atop the goal posts. The previous crossbar had spoiled and we had to trim a new piece of bamboo and nail it on as the new crossbar. Other players cut sticks from nearby trees and staked the net into the ground by bashing them with large flat rocks. Compared to the pre-game ritual in high school where metal stakes and velcro straps attached a pristine net to a perfectly sized goal frame, this was far less precise but much more fun.

The opposing team arrived for the 3pm match at 5pm, just as the local team was dividing into two sides based on preference of Ghanaian club football clubs (Accra Hearts of Oak vs. Ashanti Kotoko). Donated St. Ignatius uniforms were finally going to be put to use but just prior to kickoff, the opposing team showed up in white jerseys and we were forced to abandon our town game and sport blue replica Manchester United jerseys.

With the wedding celebration coming to a close, the match got underway with a huge fan base and no shortage of inebriated fans (plus one referee and several players). The scrappy game ended in a 1-1 draw. A poorly cleared ball by the Bormase keeper allowed an open net put back early in the match but our side persevered and knotted the score at 1-1 as the sun was about to set. A few of my shots narrowly missed the mark but at the end of the match, I received hearty handshakes from both teams.

I'm now buying some last minute provisions as I won't have another opportunity before my American visitors arrive.

With nowhere to go but up following the conversation with Dorothy, things managed to go up and up and up throughout the week.

Love and Happy Holidays to all.

Ira

PS: Somehow, Kua is actually NOT pregnant.

Thursday, December 18, 2008

Inconvenient security

For several months now, some of my PC cohorts and I have been discussing the idea of attending Festival au Desert in Mali from January 8-10. The concert presents numerous toureg artists and last year received a cameo appearance from none other than Robert Plant. In the months leading up to the show, the website was updated and showed that the price had jumped dramatically from last year. A fellow volunteer and I traded e-mails with one of the concert organizers and offered our services as volunteers in exchange for a reduced rate. A former language trainer with Peace Corps Mali, the contact seemed very interested in helping but told us that the decision would have to wait.

With the standfast situation surrounding the upcoming run-off election, I was resigned to the fact that I wouldn't be able to attend the concert without incredibly strenuous travel involved. The standfast ends on Jan 2nd and I would have to travel great distances (the full distance would only take one long day of driving with American cars and roads) for several days straight if I hoped to make it to Timbuctou by January 7th. Either way, if the news came that we could attend for free, I was ready to give it a shot. Today, as I sat down to my e-mail, I saw that I'd received e-mails from the Peace Corps Safety and Security Officer as well as from the concert organizer. We were approved to receive free admission in exchange for our work but at the same time, we were forbidden from traveling to Northern Mali because of recent kidnappings and other safety concerns. Again, though I'm happy that my safety is being taken into account, it can put a serious damper on planning ahead.

On another note, I'd like to share some of todays mishaps with you. The longer I'm in Ghana, the less I notice the strange things that used to irk, frighten or disgust me. To help keep irksome, frightening or disgusting situations from occurring more often, I seldom look in a mirror. After eating breakfast, packing my bags, washing up and putting on sunscreen for my day in Koforidua, I looked through the mess that is my desk in order to find my phone. While searching through the pile of clothes and papers, I came across my small mirror and noticed that I had a very solid sunscreen uni-brow going on. I wonder how often I walk around with food in my teeth or on my face. Ignorance is bliss in that regard.

When it came to lunchtime, I decided to mix things up a bit and try share my business with an entrepreneurial woman who has been selling what appear to be egg salad sandwiches on the roadside. For 70 pesewas, I got macaroni salad and baked beans between to fat pieces of bread (in Ghana, ketchup, baked beans and mayonnaise are very welcome condiments). I bit into the sandwich and wasn't as pleased as I expected but thought I'd stick with it. As I continued to eat and wonder what was wrong with my food, I looked between the fluffy pieces of bread and saw a solid chunk of fish meat with skin and scales attached. Very unappealing!! These situations are far from uncommon but are definitely worth sharing. One more thing; I've been patting myself on the back regarding my ability to adjust to the climate. Now that I've entered my second December at site, I realize that the change in season has helped more than anything. I once again break a sweat without moving. I soak through nearly every inch of my clothing after an hour of work on the farm. It's very hard to sleep at night because of the still, blanketing heat.

Yet another thing, while writing the blog, I took a sip from my Nalgene water bottle and got a pleasant surprise. I drank a bean that fell into the bottle during last night's dinner. That should be strange right? At this point, it's free fiber and protein!!!

Love to all
Ira

Sunday, December 14, 2008

Merry Standfast

After finishing mid-service medical, I went to Bunso Coco College for the second annual All Volunteer Conference. Last year, the meeting was based around the Office of the Inspector General investigation and ended with the departure of at least five volunteers. Despite the negative overtones of last year's conference, volunteers raved about it's relevance and pushed strongly for the implementation of an annual meeting.

This year, the meeting was scheduled to coincide with Ghana's Presidential election and also happened to work well as a hand-off from Bob (old Country Director) to Mike (new Country Director). The meeting allowed 90 volunteers to convene in one place and hash out any any major complains or worries that may be lingering.

Enough of the conference was related to HIV/AIDS related topics for it to fall under the umbrella of PEPFAR and received funding. Most volunteers dreaded the idea of yet another PEPFAR meeting but the agenda was very interactive and the schedule was far less grueling than expected.

Complaints were shared from all sides, rumors were dispelled and ultimate frisbee and soccer were played each afternoon. The occasionally segregated teacher and omnibus volunteers bonded at a Peace Corps prom and during an impromptu talent show. Some of the quieter volunteers shared some incredible talents that were shocking to all.

As many of us expected, the Presidential election was too close to call (by constitutional parameters) with the NPP receiving just over 49 percent and the NDC receiving just under 49 percent. There will be a run-off on December 28th and due to civil unrest leading up to and following run-off elections in Ghana and other African nations, all volunteers will be required to stay at or near their respective sites from December 24th through January 2nd. Though most volunteers understand that the restriction has been mandated as a way to ensure our safety, many were bummed by the requirement that we spend Christmas and New Years away from friends and fun vacation spots. With my sister Martha's inevitably awesome vacation scheduled for Dec. 26 through Jan. 10, my plans have been thrown into the spin-cycle and plans are up in the air.

Yesterday, Florida Senator Bill Nelson sat down with any and all volunteers who were available in Accra. He has been on an intelligence mission throughout Africa and was willing to sit with us and discuss any pressing issues. He asked about our primary projects and told us about his appreciation for the Peace Corps and his vision for future growth. We had a great time chatting and we got to eat CHEESE!!! Honestly though, Senator Nelson was incredibly appreciative of our work and he wasn't visibly fazed by the fact that our dressiest clothing included sweaty, wrinkled clothing and open toed sandals. Today, I'll go back to the reality of Ghana and get back to work.

If you have time, please take a look at my friend Jon's Peace Corps Partnership Project proposal. Jon's village is in need of more easily accessible drinking water. Any donations are tax deductible and will go a long way. Thanks.

https://www.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=resources.donors.contribute.projDetail&projdesc=641-250

Love to all,
Ira

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

A real deal meal

While in the north, Cheri and I saw some of her neighbors peeling what
appeared to be good large potatoes. Having eaten our share of various
yam varieties over the last year, we were ready to pick up some normal
potatoes and maybe make some french fries for a snack. Cheri's
assemblyman assured us that the legumes were to bitter to eat and he
showed us the traditional way the food is prepared. The food is pealed
and ground very fine before being soaked in water. The water is poured
out and the process is repeated until the bitterness is gone. The
remaining gooey white starch is then fried and eaten with some variety
of oily soup (that can be assumed in Ghana). Feeling adventurous,
Cheri and I bought one of the "potatoes" along with a sweet potato and
were ready to see what we could manage.

After frying and seasoning the tuber, we served it up and were ready
to give it a shot. Before biting down, the oil and seasoning had me
convinced that we had done a good job. I wasn't even able to chew the
failed french fry twice before spitting it out. The Assemblyman was
right, this food was FAR too bitter to eat as it was. Rather than
feeling defeated, I was deeply impressed with the effort and
determination that must be put into food preparation in such an
unforgiving climate.

A few days later, as I sat in Accra on the day before Thanksgiving, I
couldn't help but marvel at the stark difference between North and
South. I had a cheeseburger for lunch and for sheer novelty sake, a
group of us ate cat kebabs for dinner (it's not commonly available but
a restaurant owner offered to make some for us). Within an hour of our
cat kebab feast, two bloodied volunteers came into the Swissrest
(Peace Corps bunk room in Accra) to tell us that they had been walking
down the road and not 50 meters from the entrance to the Swissrest, a
man leaned out of the passenger window of a car and grabbed the bag of
a 60 year old volunteer. The volunteer walking next to the victim
instantly tried to grab the bag back and the two men were drug on the
road alongside the car for 20-30 feet as it sped off with bag in tow.
This happened at 7pm with a number of cars and onlookers around. Never
a dull moment.

With no serious physical damage, the two scraped up volunteers joined
as 36 volunteers joined the embassy workers, Fullbright Scholars and
Marines at the Ambassador's house for Thanksgiving dinner. We arrived
a little after noon and were treated to juice, beer wine and hors d
oeuvres and were given access to the swimming pool. One volunteer
drank too much and another walked around the outdoor dining area with
bare feet while wearing only swim trunks but all around the day was
great. The Ambassador has spent 23 years in the foreign service and
has just begun his first stint as an Ambassador. His friend and former
boss (the Ambassador to South Africa) was also in attendance and
offered interesting insight to the upcoming election and World Cup in
South Africa.

Dinner was server at around 2pm and there was more than enough food
for the sixty guests. We ate Turkey with stuffing and three types of
gravy. We had green beans, mashed potatoes, salad, cornbread and a
corn pudding that was based on the Ambassador's wife's family recipe.
I ate two servings while sitting next to and chatting with the
Ambassador before he got up and urged the cooking staff to provide
dessert. We ate pumpkin pie, pecan pie and a type of chocolate cake
before all was said and done. While chatting with the various guests,
I met my host for the evening and at around 4:30pm, a fellow volunteer
and I left the festivities behind. Our Country Director set up lodging for all volunteers so I shared a home with a fellow volunteer, a USAID worker and the worker's two children. Ms. Friedman, our host, had been working for USAID in Ghana for 4 months and was a very gracious host. In fact, we lucked out to the point that we were guests for a second turkey dinner. Families streamed in throughout the evening and by dinner time, I had shared Peace Corps stories with three RPCVs and chatted with spouses from Sierra Leone, Angola and the UK. We talked about Peace Corps life and we talked about life in the world of development work. Perhaps the most interesting part of the evening was sitting between children and adults at the dinner table (more Turkey, stuffing etc. to the point that I was happily ready to burst) and hearing how the children would complain about the prospect of visiting Kente cloth villages and bead making sites because they'd be away from friends and perhaps out of cell phone coverage. I guess you can take the teen out of America without changing the priorities.

The day after Thanksgiving started with real coffee and a bowl of cereal with cold milk (luxury!!) and was followed by a meeting with another former Peace Corps Volunteer. For a few months, I have traded e-mails with my APCD, fellow volunteers and an RPCV from the late 60's regarding a halfway house in Accra. The RPCV has lived throughout Africa for around thirty years and is now starting a halfway house in Accra and hopes to receive help from current volunteers. Travis and I met this man and discussed the prospect of introducing snail rearing, mushroom cultivation and the growing of Moringa. The goal is to establish a safe place for recovering alcoholics to stay while providing them with income generating activities. The idea seems feasible but between a day at the Ambassador's house and a day with a well established RPCV with expendible income for projects, I started to lose my bearing regarding capacity building and low income projects. I had a great time and did my best to put weight back on (I'm still 18 lbs. lighter than I was when I arrived) but I was very ready to get back to Bormase.

I spent two days in Bormase before returning to Accra for mid-service medical. I've now spent three days providing one urine sample, three stool samples and receiving my first dental cleaning in 16 months. From here, I'm headed to the all volunteer conference near the training site in Kukurantumi where we'll all be consolidated in preparation for any problems related to the December 7th election. I predict a run-off but hope for no serious problems. At this point, all one can do is hope that things run smoothly and that peace is maintained.

That's all for now.
Love to all
Ira