MJ

When I woke up on my last full pre-vacation morning in Bormase, I turned on my shortwave radio and immediately heard the news that the unparalleled Michael Jackson had passed away.

My plan for the day was to help Patrick and his family complete any last bead work that they hoped to send with me to America. For some serious cultural exchange, I got to his house at 8am and Patrick, Lizzie, Gladys and Tetteh sat on the floor stringing beads while listening to every Michael Jackson song on my iPod via portable speakers. Patrick had heard the news and knew the impact but Tetteh and Lizzie had no idea who they were listening to. Naturally, as is all but automatic when listening to Michael Jackson, everybody was bobbing and humming to the music within minutes. What better cultural exchange is there than making traditional Krobo jewelry while listening to music that changed America, race, music and the rest of the world?

When the bead work was complete and my room was packed, I was ready to leave for the USA. When thinking of coming back, I couldn't help but notice that during the first 25 years and three months of my life, I spent about one cumulative month outside the USA. Up until yesterday I had been outside the US for over 21 months straight. I was ready for a shock.

I left Bormase with an unbelievable amount of luggage. Gifts and beads provided most of the weight but I also wanted to clear my house of all items that won't fit in a hiking backpack for post-Peace Corps travels.

The journey to Accra went well, the tro did the work of carrying my luggage. When I got out of the tro with my hiking pack, backpack, duffel bag and Ghana Gucci (we volunteers use this term for the huge synthetic bags you can find in most China towns) I was ready to make the short walk to the office. The walk is the equivalent of maybe five blocks but naturally, it started raining just before I got out of the tro.

I hadn't distributed the weight properly so I had all sixty pounds of beads in the crappy cheap bag that I was carrying like a briefcase. The rain got harder and the stares more confused as I shuffled fifty meters at a time before stopping and standing in the middle of the sidewalk in the rain. I was convinced at the time that this brief five block walk was the most physically demanding thing that I had ever done in my life. Of course that can't be true but I was wiped out and soaked when I got to the office.

I had a fun night out with Gray, Erin, Travis and Marcus (a lucky group of friends to have in Accra) and the next morning was on my way to the USA (re-organizing my 80kg of luggage took some time and bribery).

No sleep, two meals and plenty of movies got me through the eleven hour direct flight with ease. I can't believe how easy eleven hours of travel has become. A few hours at baggage claim was a bit more of a pain but at about 7pm EST, I saw my beautiful big sister Megan for the first time in nearly two years!!! Chatting away felt normal maybe five minutes later.

The two of us were a site with Megan lugging a few bags and myself with a huge broken suitcase atop my head. Fortunately, it's New York City and nobody seemed surprised.

A taxi ride with and Ivorian driver, a walk through Manhattan, a big meal at ESPNzone while watching the Yankees play the Mets (what great timing) a long walk on a 70 degree NY night and a hot shower brought my 22 hour day to an end. Burning eyes, a comfortable hotel bed and no ability to sleep brought me this blog entry five hours later. Who knows that we'll do today but the options are endless and I'm definitely up for it. 20 lb weight gain, attempt number two has begun!!!

Love to all
Ira